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  • low budget hole repair

    After reading Pinch's report that he used Marine Goop as an adhesive, I thought I would share a repair job I completed yesterday using Goop as a main component.

    Two years ago, my daughter and her friend used my two kayaks to do a short paddle around Weems Creek. When they came back to the ramp, we pulled both boats onto the shoreline. My old OK Drifter was really heavy to pull. Upon closer inspection, I found a hole the diameter of a pencil in the very back of the keel, and at least 5 gallons of water came out. The hole must have rubbed away from too many times dragging the kayak over a paved surface.

    Initially I inserted a metal bolt of similar diameter to the hole and applied a bit of sealant. It worked poorly and still allowed some water to enter the hull. Later, I added a heavy steel plate with a U-cross section. I Gooped it in place. It definitely sealed the hole, and provided very sturdy protection against additional scraping of the keel. However, the edges of the metal plate would catch on the grass and dirt as I dragged the kayak from the rear of the house up to the driveway. My choices were to build a cart or to redo the repair. I chose the latter approach.

    For those of you who question the adhesive strength of Goop, I can assure you it is very strong, and it adheres tightly to the plastic used in kayaks. It took some serious prying and banging with a hammer and chisels to get the metal plate free. I then sanded the area and cleaned the surface with rubbing alcohol. I found a nylon bolt in my workshop. I think it had been part of a toilet seat that is no longer in use. It fit inside the hole nicely. I added two thin nylon washers between the bolt head and the hull for additional strength and used Goop to seal between each layer.

    Next I ran a thick line of Goop along the rear of the keel area. As gravity pulled it down to either side, I used my finger to push as much Goop as possible back up to the edge of the keel. That first layer hardened to the touch in a few hours, but I waited until the next day to add more. Each day this week, I added another layer of Goop to thicken and strengthen the keel. After the second coat, I found an aluminum knitting needle that my wife did not use any more. I cut and bent it to fit as an additional keel guard. I kept adding thin layers of Goop to completely enclose the needle so no metal edges are exposed.

    I have not yet used the kayak since the repair. This is my old, back up boat that gets used primarily when I visit the South River headwaters, where the water is very shallow and access is not easy. The Drifter is very stable and lighter than my Manta Ray. I also use it as my guest boat.

    I bought the tube of Goop at Home Depot last year. Note that Goop is about half as expensive when bought at Home Depot as compared to West Marine. I have found no need to use the Marine version of Goop. The regular works just fine.

    I had the bolt, washers, and knitting needle sitting in my workshop already. So my total outlay for this repair was less than $5. Admittedly, it is not a professional, attractive repair. But for the occasional use this boat gets, I think it is suitable.
    Attached Files
    John Veil
    Annapolis
    Native Watercraft Manta Ray 11, Falcon 11

    Author - "Fishing in the Comfort Zone" , "Fishing Road Trip - 2019", "My Fishing Life: Two Years to Remember", and "The Way I Like to Fish -- A Kayak Angler's Guide to Shallow Water, Light Tackle Fishing"

  • #2
    Thanks for the ideas. I will be interested in how sturby that turns out to be and you may have given me some ideas on how to address the wear on the bow of my yak.

    Chimo

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by J.A. Veil View Post
      After reading Pinch's report that he used Marine Goop as an adhesive, I thought I would share a repair job I completed yesterday using Goop as a main component.

      Two years ago, my daughter and her friend used my two kayaks to do a short paddle around Weems Creek. When they came back to the ramp, we pulled both boats onto the shoreline. My old OK Drifter was really heavy to pull. Upon closer inspection, I found a hole the diameter of a pencil in the very back of the keel, and at least 5 gallons of water came out. The hole must have rubbed away from too many times dragging the kayak over a paved surface.

      Initially I inserted a metal bolt of similar diameter to the hole and applied a bit of sealant. It worked poorly and still allowed some water to enter the hull. Later, I added a heavy steel plate with a U-cross section. I Gooped it in place. It definitely sealed the hole, and provided very sturdy protection against additional scraping of the keel. However, the edges of the metal plate would catch on the grass and dirt as I dragged the kayak from the rear of the house up to the driveway. My choices were to build a cart or to redo the repair. I chose the latter approach.

      For those of you who question the adhesive strength of Goop, I can assure you it is very strong, and it adheres tightly to the plastic used in kayaks. It took some serious prying and banging with a hammer and chisels to get the metal plate free. I then sanded the area and cleaned the surface with rubbing alcohol. I found a nylon bolt in my workshop. I think it had been part of a toilet seat that is no longer in use. It fit inside the hole nicely. I added two thin nylon washers between the bolt head and the hull for additional strength and used Goop to seal between each layer.

      Next I ran a thick line of Goop along the rear of the keel area. As gravity pulled it down to either side, I used my finger to push as much Goop as possible back up to the edge of the keel. That first layer hardened to the touch in a few hours, but I waited until the next day to add more. Each day this week, I added another layer of Goop to thicken and strengthen the keel. After the second coat, I found an aluminum knitting needle that my wife did not use any more. I cut and bent it to fit as an additional keel guard. I kept adding thin layers of Goop to completely enclose the needle so no metal edges are exposed.

      I have not yet used the kayak since the repair. This is my old, back up boat that gets used primarily when I visit the South River headwaters, where the water is very shallow and access is not easy. The Drifter is very stable and lighter than my Manta Ray. I also use it as my guest boat.

      I bought the tube of Goop at Home Depot last year. Note that Goop is about half as expensive when bought at Home Depot as compared to West Marine. I have found no need to use the Marine version of Goop. The regular works just fine.

      I had the bolt, washers, and knitting needle sitting in my workshop already. So my total outlay for this repair was less than $5. Admittedly, it is not a professional, attractive repair. But for the occasional use this boat gets, I think it is suitable.
      I have been working designing a kit for the sterns of my kayaks that has a small stainless ball bearing wheel that keeps the keel from rubbing on the pavement- The different contours of Hobies vs. Ocean Kayaks sterns has me scratching my head about exactly how is the best way of attaching the roller wheel to the stern in such a way as to be sturdy, yet functional and professionally looking. I thought about an aluminum shoe holding the wheel at the bitter end that is fitted to the bottom of the kayaks in a moulding to the shape of the keel attached with a strong adhesive but the brand of adhesive that would bond completely with the linear poly is something I am still researching- the entire unit I am putting together would be permanently installed and is small enough so that it functions as intended without excessive drag when the kayak is in the water-
      "Lady Luck" 2016 Red Hibiscus Hobie Outback, Lowrance Hook2-7TS
      2018 Seagrass Green Hobie Compass, Humminbird 798 ci HD SI
      "Wet Dream" 2011 yellow Ocean Prowler 13
      Charter member of Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club

      Comment


      • #4
        Good old American Inginuity. Way to go John!
        John


        Ocean Kayak Trident 13 Angler (Sand)
        MK Endura Max 55 backup power
        Vibe Skipjack 90

        Graduate of the University of the Republic of South Vietnam, class of 1972

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by ronaultmtd View Post
          I have been working designing a kit for the sterns of my kayaks that has a small stainless ball bearing wheel that keeps the keel from rubbing on the pavement- The different contours of Hobies vs. Ocean Kayaks sterns has me scratching my head about exactly how is the best way of attaching the roller wheel to the stern in such a way as to be sturdy, yet functional and professionally looking. I thought about an aluminum shoe holding the wheel at the bitter end that is fitted to the bottom of the kayaks in a moulding to the shape of the keel attached with a strong adhesive but the brand of adhesive that would bond completely with the linear poly is something I am still researching- the entire unit I am putting together would be permanently installed and is small enough so that it functions as intended without excessive drag when the kayak is in the water-
          Ron -

          Several manufacturers make them standard features now. The newer Native Manta Rays (mine is approx. 2008 vintage and does not have it) have a built in wheel at the stern to aid in rolling the boat http://www.nativewatercraft.com/features.cfm?id=9&add=4. A less common brand (Feelfree Moken) has added a wheel to some of their hulls too http://www.feelfreekayak.com/products/moken10-angler/. You might take a look at those models to see if one would fit your hull shape.

          Regarding adhesives, my experience with using Goop on the hulls of both of my kayaks is that it makes a very tight bond and becomes hard upon curing. I can't imagine it coming loose short of having your kayak fall off the roof while the vehicle is underway. If that happens, loosing a stern wheel is probably a pretty minor problem.
          John Veil
          Annapolis
          Native Watercraft Manta Ray 11, Falcon 11

          Author - "Fishing in the Comfort Zone" , "Fishing Road Trip - 2019", "My Fishing Life: Two Years to Remember", and "The Way I Like to Fish -- A Kayak Angler's Guide to Shallow Water, Light Tackle Fishing"

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by chimo View Post
            Thanks for the ideas. I will be interested in how sturby that turns out to be and you may have given me some ideas on how to address the wear on the bow of my yak.

            Chimo
            Last summer I found a pinhole leak next to one of my scupper drain tubes. I patched it with Goop -- it has been water-tight ever since.
            John Veil
            Annapolis
            Native Watercraft Manta Ray 11, Falcon 11

            Author - "Fishing in the Comfort Zone" , "Fishing Road Trip - 2019", "My Fishing Life: Two Years to Remember", and "The Way I Like to Fish -- A Kayak Angler's Guide to Shallow Water, Light Tackle Fishing"

            Comment


            • #7
              I got this ......... works great ....... filled a few screw holes. It uses the same plastic as the Yaks and the exact same color ........ a little sanding and you won't know the difference ...... even come with the plastic color matching rods .........

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey Great idea for a repair job! New to the Kayak field o I look at all the post of repairs and rigging, my question is where do you launch for the headwaters of South River? I have wanted to fish that area but the only I know of is at Rt2 on the south side. Any advice would be Great!

                eyedaddy

                Comment


                • #9
                  Eyedaddy,

                  You can try and find a place on Rt 450 to pull of the side of the road and put in. If you want to go in off of Rt2, I'm told that the Yellow Fin resturant lets people launch for free on a certain day of the week. I believe it is somehow related with the Chesapeake Kayakers but I don't recall what day it is. If you want to go in further down, you can launch at Quiet Waters park. If you are a Vet, you can get a free pass to go whenever you want.

                  Anne Arundel County has the most contact with the bay out of all the counties but the access is terrible.

                  Regards,

                  John
                  John


                  Ocean Kayak Trident 13 Angler (Sand)
                  MK Endura Max 55 backup power
                  Vibe Skipjack 90

                  Graduate of the University of the Republic of South Vietnam, class of 1972

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Goop is good. I've been using it to seal drill holes when I add tracks and accessories to my yaks.

                    FWIW: I have an old Pamlico I use for river fishing. It has a pretty good hole in the keel from dragging. I have had success plugging that hole with PC7 epoxy. The PC7 is nice because it sands and shapes very well. I put it on liberally and then use a wood file to shape it and sand it to conform to the hull lines on my boat.

                    Then I attach a piece of keeleazy tape on top of the repair. No more leak and no more damage than I already have. I do have to replace tape two or three times per season though. Those Potomac rocks are murderous on hulls, especially when you use rocks to hold position like I do.
                    Hurricane Skimmer 128
                    WS Pamlico 100

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      What did you get that is the same plastic and same color? And the matching rods?
                      Color me ..old and confused. LOL

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Memory Maker View Post
                        I got this ......... works great ....... filled a few screw holes. It uses the same plastic as the Yaks and the exact same color ........ a little sanding and you won't know the difference ...... even come with the plastic color matching rods .........
                        2018 Hobie Outback (seagrass)
                        Old Town Camper Canoe (red)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          For my Cobra Explorer, I fix holes with a soldering iron. I melt a little bit of the hole area and then pull that melted plastic over the hole. I read where the Cobra is made from polythene. Not sure the soldering iron would do the same on your kayak.
                          Peggy

                          Native Slayer Propel 12.5 Max
                          Cobra Explorer

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I just bought an old Ocean Kayak Scrambler and have cleaned off all the black rub marks on the hull (with CLR) which I assume are drag marks and then rubbed in some WD40. Added bungee cords over the front and rear storage areas and an anchor trolley line and paddle strap.

                            I had two old drill holes that are near the top of the hull that I will try to seal with some plastic. Ive heard an old milk jug could do the job. I dunno. Theres also a rubber plug at the apex of the front hull that pulled out (rope was attached for mooring?) and Ive sealed that with silicone waterproof sealant and reinstalled it.

                            Just want to seal those 3/16 drill holes to make them absolutely waterproof so Im wondering if installing two rivets and then covering them with that marine goop will work or if I should use the old milk jug approach?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks for the heads-up! I don't have any holes yet but want to be ahead of the game when it does happen. Did you get your new Kayak yet?

                              Comment

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