Rod Holder/Fish Finder Mount Question

[mytmouse]

Here: http://kayakfishinggear.com/34liquidtitefitting.aspx

You have to leave the cords sticking out though... or loosen the fitting and pull them back as far as you can. Thats why im putting it in the sonar shield... doesnt matter if the cables are out at all times. Heck I'll probably never take the FF out LOL

Oh I will jumping on these ASAP! Just what I wanted...


Dats a SAMwich!!!

MYT

[MetroMan]

Here: http://kayakfishinggear.com/34liquidtitefitting.aspx

You have to leave the cords sticking out though... or loosen the fitting and pull them back as far as you can. Thats why im putting it in the sonar shield... doesnt matter if the cables are out at all times. Heck I'll probably never take the FF out LOL

Cool! I'm ok with leaving the ends of the cords and their plugs out. I did that with my old yak. I might not use that for the exit hole on top of the hull, I wanna be able to keep that area as flush as possible when the ff is not installed.

[Japanesezero]

If the only thing you order is that fitting you can get $2 shipping...

[Redfish12]

Metro, I would recommend getting the bigger flushmount - 344 i think is what it is called. The little one is fine for a fishfinder but if you plan on using it for crabbing or as a rod holder the larger disk of the mount will help.

I can take some pictures of my install today if you want, I went the super cheap route.

[Redfish12]

Ok here's what I did, not saying it's the best idea or anything but it's worked and not leaked. I've flipped it in the ocean and during self rescue practice on the lake and I did not notice water inside either time. That's not to say it was completely dry but that was with the old rod pod and there are other ways for water to get in...

Humminbird 550
Dry box from Walmart
Green copper wire from home depot
Electrical Tape
Goop
Heat shrink tubing
Random foam
(I need to redo this, I had a fuse but it got corrosion on it and messed up my depthfinder. The electrical tape was used half way during a trip in the summer when the connectors I bought failed. I think it got too hot and having tape in my ditchbag saved me. It's worked since.)









New mod pod with dock cleat and bungee for a plano box


Essential stick on butt pad

[Redfish12]

Scupper transducer with some slack before going through the right front footwell. On the inside there is a knot in the cord that goop was poured into with duct tape under it to from a seal, then goop on the outside. The scupper transducer collects a lot of junk on it.


Humminbird mount bolted in with the wires held in place from a hole underneath


Rubber stopper with a hole drilled out and the wires run through it. The extra cabling is zip tied to a scupper post beneath. I used the same method of goop over the stopper on both sides. The cords in the stopper make a tight fit in the small round hole I cut, the goop seals everything else.

[Japanesezero]

AWESOME Pix! Im debating using the battery bag in the boat. Its not water sealed and my 12V battery takes up almost the whole thing. I may see about fitting a bigger bag in that space or using it for something different. I like simple and not a lot of holes etc. I like your plano box bungee on the mod pod and might end up snagging that from you. almost like a wilderness system style application. Where did you get that stick on butt pad?

[Redfish12]

I got the idea from my ride actually. Makes sense and keeps me from twisting around so much, just put the box there that has what I think I'll use the most. I used night crawlers last year and they fit great under my depth finder in my sonar shield, sandworms too.

Butt pad came from Time Out Sports in Charleston SC, but I imagine just about any other kayak store would have them. Probably get them on ACK or Amazon. I'll see if I can find one. I think mine cost $8 and made a great deal of difference on butt numbness.

[DOGFISH]

It is not a simple disconnect from the back of the unit. The cables fit into the base, which then snaps into the bottom of the depth finder. Otherwise, you are going to have cables dangling out of the kayak. I don't think you can do that the way you want with the Humminbird. The wires sort of mount into the base. If you had a unit where the cables mounted to the back of the unit, like Garmin, you could probably do what you are attempting to do. However, you would still have wires there. With the Humminbird you can buy one of the rubber caps that fit over the mount. That protects the mount from water.

I have had my transducer in the scupper hole continously for three years now. It must go a little below the inset, as I have to lift a little when sliding the kayak on the trailer.

[DOGFISH]

The Humminbird should come with a trim piece that will cover where the area where wire comes through the deck or bulkhead. You can seal the hole and then cover it with the trim, through the cutouts for the wires. I used a rubber stopper from True value. Drilled holes in it, sliced it with a razon, run the wires through and jammed it into the hole an gooped it. When it set up, I then used the trim piece to finish it off. Looks like it was made with the kayak.

If you don't want to wait, West Marine has those through hull dry fittnings in the electrical isle. Another choice is around the antenna section. It is made for thru hull antenna connections. You can cut the rubber seal, drill the hole for your wire and then tighten down on the fitting, and it becomes a water tight through hull fitting. They come in three sizes.

Anyone mounting a FF in a sonar shield should consider mounting the base to the back wall of the well. Otherwise, your unit will not adjust forward or rearward enough to close the top with the strap. I mounted my first FF to the bottom and found that out. I never leave my FF/GPS in the kayak anyway, so it didn't matter. It also makes sense that the water will run down the side of the wall, unlike setting around the edge of the base on the bottom of the well. I have seen that done on you tube. Seems like a better installation. To each his own. The power wire then comes through at the base and the transducer wire goes through the slot in the well directly to the scupper hole. Just a thought.

I think it is Kayak Fishing Stuff.com that has battery kits, already with the dry box. However, I think Ocean Kayaks come with a battery carrier under the front deck. My trident had a canvas type and my Big Game has a really nice shelf for the batter and other electrical connections. I got the angler edition, maybe that was part of the package. Possibly those items are available from OK.

When all else fails, consult the instructions.

[MetroMan]

Wow! Thanks everyone for the contributions in this thread. It not only provides sound guidance for me, but also for others who may face the same questions and decisions in the future!

Redfish, I love the battery box. I had a similar set up that I rigged on my previous yak. Without the foam, it was a Tupperware container with a snap-tight gasket that provided similar results. With regards to the flush mount holder I'm putting up front, it is for the fish finder only, so I'm not worried about it's sturdiness.

Dogfish, the fishfinder mount that I got arrived today. I looked at it in the package and said to myself "hmmm...wow, this looks like it's designed for the cables to run up through the bottom". You are wise beyond your years. As you can tell, I envisioned being able to remove the fish finder as if the unit were an ice cream cone.

Thanks again for sharing tips, pics, and advice here. I now have enough knowledge and parts from to keep me busy this weekend lol!



The rubber corks you guys mentioned are freaking genius ideas.

[MetroMan]

My fish finder will be powered by my trolling motor battery. Wiring will run into the battery box, below deck.

[Tucked In]

Hey Redfish, how do you like the transducer in the scupper hole, any problems with the foot hitting it or the wires snagging the foot brace.

[Redfish12]

No problems so far, I usually keep a water bottle up there behind the peg.

[MetroMan]

Just thinking aloud here again...I was concerned with maintaining a flat surface up front as a possible place to sit my gear while crabbing. I was thinking with the fishfinder removed, that space would be ideal. However it just donned on me that even for crabbing, I need the fishfinder for depth information. This simplifies things a lot...