Rigging FF in Slayer Propel 10

[J. Rentch]

I recently installed a battery and transducer for my new Slayer Propel 10. Thanks to John Veil for some great hints, it seems to be working. I had to secure my battery holder to the floor of the front hatch. John Veil suggested using Duct Seal for holding the battery case and transducer. It seems to be working well. Will have to see when it is actually in the water. For the battery case, I molded the duct seal around a piece of 2X4. Then I screwed the battery case onto the wood. It seems to be very secure. For the transducer, I placed it further back in the hatch. Again, using the Duct Seal as a mold I place a large flat portion of putty and then carefully pressed the transducer into the putty. I used a level to try and make it as level as possible. For the wiring, I used to some 1/2" Flex Tubing to wrap around the transducer and power wires for a little more protection. I plan to simply run the leads from the back of the hatch opening to the FF. I place the hatch cover on with the back end of the hatch cover slightly open. All my materials used today, I got from Home Depot in the electrical department.
.duct seal.jpgflex tubing.jpgFF-1.jpgFF-2.jpgFF-3.jpgFF-4.jpgFF-5.jpg

Everything seems to be working, but will not be sure until it is in the water-soon I hope. I am not a cold water yaker-age I guess. Again, much thanks to John Veil for his help.

[J.A. Veil]

John - Nicely done. It looks very similar to the installation I plan for my Slayer Propel 10 (probably some time this week).

[DonV]

May want to get one of these and bring the wires through the hull.
http://www.austinkayak.com/products/...iring-Kit.html
Would be a good bit safer than keeping the hatch cover partly open. I ran mine like that for awhile but just kept having nightmares of what could happen losing the hatch in a bad situation.
The wires can be fairly easily removed from the thru the hull kit if you need to remove the transducer every time and it comes with a solid plug for the times you don't need or take the FF.

[J. Rentch]

Thanks Don, saw your video on the through fittings. Definitely will keep your suggestion if hatch over idea does't work out.

[Salty Dog]

I like the in hull transducer installation, are there any drawbacks on down scan transmitting through the hull?

[J. Rentch]

I do not know yet. Have to wait until it gets in the water. John Veil used this system on his 13 ft slayer, says no problem. He also said one draw back is your temp reading. Reads the temp in the hatch, not the water.

[J.A. Veil]

I like the in hull transducer installation, are there any drawbacks on down scan transmitting through the hull?

I have never owned electronics with down scan capability, so that issue never came up for me. However, recently someone on another forum raised the same question. It prompted me to do some Internet research. This article was particularly informative http://www.kayakfishingmagazine.net/...mystified.html.

Near the beginning of the article, the writer states:

"Lucus Steward, Product Manager at Navico (Lowrance parent company) had this to say: We certainly do endorse shooting DSI through a kayak hull. I have had great success using Marine Goop. There is a small loss in coverage"


Regarding Marine Goop, I used to use it for bedding my transducers for through hull operation on several small boats and kayaks. It worked very well but made an extremely strong and tight bond between hull and transducer. I once sold a small fiberglass skiff that had the transducer mounted for through-hull operation with Goop (the sale did not include the electronics). I had to work hard with chisels and screwdrivers to pry the transducer up. From then on, I switched to using Duct Seal. It too makes a strong bond that holds the transducer in place. But if you want to remove the transducer or move it to a different location, it is much easier to work with.


DonV raises the issue of not leaving the hatch cover cracked open. His point is well taken from a safety perspective. But I have run electronics cables through small openings in hatch covers or through corners of access panels on three separate kayaks. The size of the necessary opening is very small, and the rubber hatch cover is tightly secured over 95%+ of it's contact area. Weighing the benefits of simplicity and avoidance of making holes in a kayak hull against the risk of taking on excess water through a small hole, I feel comfortable running my cables through a small gap. As I complete the installation on my new Slayer Propel 10, I plan to run my two cables like John Rentch did.

There is no single right or wrong way to rig electronics or any other kayak accessory. Each person can find a way that matches their own personal preference.

[bunnielab]

Would putting a grommet into the hatch cover be a reasonable compromise? Less chance of leak and the hole would be in an easily replaceable part.

I have been following this thread as I am still deciding between the Slayer 10 or the 13. One of the reasons I am leaning back towards the 13 is the molded in front hatch/bucket. I like the idea of being able to install a transducer through the front scupper hole and keep the battery in a drybox right in the front bucket, which makes them both easy and quick to remove. I have to store my yaks outside and I worry about leaving electronics out in the heat/cold.

[DonV]

Would putting a grommet into the hatch cover be a reasonable compromise? Less chance of leak and the hole would be in an easily replaceable part.

I have been following this thread as I am still deciding between the Slayer 10 or the 13. One of the reasons I am leaning back towards the 13 is the molded in front hatch/bucket. I like the idea of being able to install a transducer through the front scupper hole and keep the battery in a drybox right in the front bucket, which makes them both easy and quick to remove. I have to store my yaks outside and I worry about leaving electronics out in the heat/cold.

You know that is a very good idea that I just didn't think of. The only problem I see is that you may still have a good bit of distance between your FF and the grommet, depending on your placement of the FF, and it could leave a nice length of cable that could get snagged or beat around. I put my grommet within a few inches of the FF and it makes a nice clean install. The wires still can slide through the grommet plug and can be pushed down flat to the grommet for loading and storage.

I keep my battery inside the hatch and just remove the battery and FF for storage and transportation but leave the transducer in place. I did do the transducer in a 4" PVC wetwell that protects it from getting beat up in the hatch.