FF rigging for Hobie Outback

[FishHead]

I have a Hobie Outback Mirage that I want to set up with a FF/GPS combo. I have used the transducer arms for my older version WS Ride and also have a WS Ride 115X where I take advantage of the transducer console (love that thing).

I am interested in how folks on this site have rigged FF/GPS in their Outbacks. I am not the biggest fan of the transducer arms as they seem to come loose and create a bit of drag. Have never done the thru-hull installation.

Thanks in advance for your response.

[Redfish12]

What year is your Outback? In the past I have used the duct seal method to great success. There are a number of threads on this board that describe the installation method. When I used the duct seal I put my fish finder on a ram 1" ball in the sailing mast hole and simply ran the wires under the front hatch. Put a glob of duct seal down behind the sailing mast area in the hull (lowest point in the hull) and smashed the transducer down into it. I put the battery in a dry bag and clipped it to the sailing mast tube. Pretty simple setup and allowed me to remove the whole thing after each trip and put the fish finder on another kayak if needed.

[Shady]

+1 on duct seal

[Cowpokey]

Since you're asking; I'm going to guess it is a 2013 or older? Pre-Lowrance ready, no built in transducer pocket?

If that's the case, I'd mount it "thru hull".

[daolai]

I use the lowrance transducer arm and hang it over the side.

[mweber02]

+1 for duct seal through the hull.

I was a little skeptical at first so I used a wet well made with duct seal, thinking that the water would give better quality. I had to adjust the sensitivity every time I went out, sometimes dropping it below 40% just to get rid of the clutter that went nearly to the bottom.

Since I had to drain the wet well for the winter (another con), I decided I would try out the straight duct seal puck. The clarity on my FF was WAY better immediately and could run on auto sensitivity no problem.

[FishHead]

What year is your Outback? In the past I have used the duct seal method to great success. There are a number of threads on this board that describe the installation method. When I used the duct seal I put my fish finder on a ram 1" ball in the sailing mast hole and simply ran the wires under the front hatch. Put a glob of duct seal down behind the sailing mast area in the hull (lowest point in the hull) and smashed the transducer down into it. I put the battery in a dry bag and clipped it to the sailing mast tube. Pretty simple setup and allowed me to remove the whole thing after each trip and put the fish finder on another kayak if needed.

Since you're asking; I'm going to guess it is a 2013 or older? Pre-Lowrance ready, no built in transducer pocket?

If that's the case, I'd mount it "thru hull".

Thanks guys. As far as year, it is 2011 that I purchased used, so not set up as transducer-ready. I will check the forum for threads on the duct seal method. My worry on mounting to shoot thru-hull and near the sailing mast area was that the motion of the mirage drive and any turbulence in the water created from the mirage drive would render the transducer useless. Sounds like that is not the case. Appreciate the replies.

- Eric K. (aka FishHead)

[Cowpokey]

My worry on mounting to shoot thru-hull and near the sailing mast area was that the motion of the mirage drive and any turbulence in the water created from the mirage drive would render the transducer useless. Sounds like that is not the case. Appreciate the replies.

- Eric K. (aka FishHead)

The Mirage drive is below the surface of the water, so it doesn't induce air bubble turbulence behind it. The transducer pocket is behind the drive on hulls that came with it, so it's not an issue.

[mweber02]

Thanks guys. As far as year, it is 2011 that I purchased used, so not set up as transducer-ready. I will check the forum for threads on the duct seal method. My worry on mounting to shoot thru-hull and near the sailing mast area was that the motion of the mirage drive and any turbulence in the water created from the mirage drive would render the transducer useless. Sounds like that is not the case. Appreciate the replies.

- Eric K. (aka FishHead)

If you consider what a transducer has to tolerate on a boat transom, I dont think the mirage drive will be a problem. I just wouldnt mount it next to the drive.

[mebe007]

Do the dsi/hdi transducers not have issues shooting through hulls? I heard they were supposed to be in the water. I've been debating removing mine from the ran arm but don't want to lose accuracy

[mweber02]

Everything I have heard about DSI is that you have to have it in the water submerged deeper than the hull.

I've heard mixed reviews for HDI. I was told by a sales guy that it would work through the hull but with a lot of lost sensitivity. Others have said it works just fine.

[mebe007]

Yea I think if I switch from the ram arm for my moken 14 it will be a Lowrance scupper mount. The reason I went with the ram arm originally was so it could be removable and in the water.

[Mbae]

+1 for duct seal through the hull.

I was a little skeptical at first so I used a wet well made with duct seal, thinking that the water would give better quality. I had to adjust the sensitivity every time I went out, sometimes dropping it below 40% just to get rid of the clutter that went nearly to the bottom.

Since I had to drain the wet well for the winter (another con), I decided I would try out the straight duct seal puck. The clarity on my FF was WAY better immediately and could run on auto sensitivity no problem.

ahhh is that duct seal method that much better?
i had mine set up with the "well" like i saw in joe's video. guess ill go with the method of flattening out the duct seal and smashing the transducer into it. i think that was the method shown in john veils video of the slayer propel install