Anchor trolleys

[mebe007]

Ok guys so I've been using the sealect designs trolley but am intrigued by the harken cheek block style. Seems like there would be less stuff to make noise on the hull. So anyways looks like the harken 233 stainless cheek block can go on with rivets if I can't get inside with washers and nuts. But the composite micro cheek blocks looks like it can't be riveted, only bolted or well nuts. I know nothing about well nuts but they look like they can easily fail.

So how are you guys doing it?

[jhoss]

what kind of Yak?

[mebe007]

it would be for a native slayer propel 13 if i get it. i tested out a member of tkaa's boat yesterday between rainstorms and loved it. so going through different rigging solutions in my head. it looks like inside hull access is limited on this boat. on my moken 14 i couldnt access the rear and simply installed using tri lock rivets.

this particular pulley is local at west marine and could be installed with rivets as well
https://www.austinkayak.com/products...lley-H233.html

these guys look to be bolts or well nuts only
https://www.austinkayak.com/products...ulley-Kit.html

[J.A. Veil]

it would be for a native slayer propel 13 if i get it. i tested out a member of tkaa's boat yesterday between rainstorms and loved it. so going through different rigging solutions in my head. it looks like inside hull access is limited on this boat. on my moken 14 i couldnt access the rear and simply installed using tri lock rivets.

this particular pulley is local at west marine and could be installed with rivets as well
https://www.austinkayak.com/products...lley-H233.html

these guys look to be bolts or well nuts only
https://www.austinkayak.com/products...ulley-Kit.html

FYI - You have two points of access inside the hull on a Slayer Propel 13: a) the square black plate in front of the seat area, and b) the round cup holder with black rubber cap behind the seat. I have reached inside far enough to tighten bolts for rodholder bases mounted behind the seats.

[mebe007]

right but im not sure if i can reach far enough to the back and front for installing nyloc nuts

[kuljc]

I've seen some people put some type of rubber pad between the yak and the pulley so it doesn't scratch or make too much sound. Have you tried that?


Otherwise, Hobie trolley kits use the plastic harken cheek block style (maybe they actually are harken). I used it on my last yak, but didn't like having the block drilled directly to the yak. Then again, a lot of people use the hobie kit, so it does work for a lot of people. I use padeyes with bungie between the padeye and pulley.

a LOT of people do not like Wellnuts. If anything that is going to have stress put on it the well nut will probably end up popping out (this has happened to me as well).

Rivets tend to come lose easier then a screw and nut, but I believe rivets are more reliable than well nuts.


edited the wording. my words don't make sense some times.

[Bulldog]

My son in law just did his Propel 13 and used starboard backers with the stainless nuts heated up and pushed in to the plastic, he then gooped it and pulled it to the holes he drilled along a string he had fished in, pulled it tight and put the bolts in Bingo, way at the front and rear of yak! We also have been doing our anchor trolleys using a Wilderness Systems (Sorry Woody)tie down from the rail system. I will be doing the same on my Propel 13 when I get it, very soon! I attached photo 3.jpgmy OK Ultra picture to show how the trolley fits in the tie down......Jack

[Bulldog]

Oh, yeah, Jason tried rivets first and didn't like them , then he listened to some old guy whose daughter he is sleeping with and did it the right way........Jack