Tweet
I've had quite a few inquires about this, so here are the details.
I did the installation summer of last year, and it has been working great. About $200, and no holes drilled in the kayak.
Parts/Material
- Minn Kota Endura 30 motor (30# thrust, 30" shaft. I heard this is among the most efficient motors on the market. It has a C2 designation now. Regularly cost $110, but I had a Dick's discount coupon)
- Minn Kota motor circuit breaker (optional, but I chose to have it to protect the motor. Cost $40)
- Costco Kirtland Marine battery (group size 24, 85 amp-hour, weighs 50 pounds, Cost $60)
- Sturdy crate (I already had this, and I don't know what it costs now. Don't use those cheap flimsy crates)
- Turnbuckles (You need four, preferable the open end ones. Cost $1-2 each at Home Depot)
- Misc hardware (loop screws, nuts, bolts, washers, wood screws)
- Two feet of 2 X 4 lumber
- 1/4 " plywood (about a 8" X 4" piece), and four other smaller pine/plywood pieces
- Outdoor spar urethane (optional, but I chose to finish the wood for protection)
I already had some parts/material, so it cost me about $200 to add the system.
Building the crate
- Decide if you want a left or right side motor mount
- Use a sturdy crate. There will be some flex when the motor is attached to the 2x4 support arm and when the motor is initially turned on to full throttle.
- Cut four (approx 2"X5") wood pieces to sandwich the sides of the crate. See pics. Two pieces per side. This is your crate bracing where the loop screws are attached for connection to the turnbuckles.
- Attach 2 foot long 2X4 support arm to crate. I used the 2x4 and approx 8"X4" plywood to sandwich the front of the crate. I flush mounted the screws. I positioned the 2X4 support arm such that it lay flat on the kayak. You'll have to check to make sure, when you mount the motor on the arm, the prop doesn't hit the hull when you rotate the motor for steering.
- Add wood pacers to bottom of crate. Since the crate doesn't fit perfectly in the cargo well, spacers are needed to prevent the crate from shifting. I attached/screwed a 1/2" X 1 " hardwood piece to the front bottom of the crate. See pic. Length depends on inside width of well. I didn't need one, but you might want a spacer toward the rear of crate too. Let me know if you can't picture this, and I'll send pics.
- Optional: Finish all wood with urethane
Installing crate and motor
- Mount crate. Locate kayak lugs. Attach turnbuckles. You'll have to determine the number of links needed to insure proper tightening of turnbuckles. Hand tighten only! You don't need to wrench it down to get the whole crate (with motor mounted) secure. And you don't want to rip out the kayak lugs.
- Mount motor. Of course, prepare the terminals first.
Power
- Battery fits nicely into the well, and it's spaced about an inch from the front of the crate. I think a larger 100+ amp hour will also fit. Note: It's this approximately 1 inch plastic space (part of the kayak) where the support arm rests.
- I use the blue rubber bath mat to cushion the battery, prevent it from shifting around, and provide some level of cover when flipped over the battery top.
- You can see the black circuit breaker on the top of the battery in the pic.
The motor handle extends out about 6-8 inches. It does not get in the way when I paddle. Five forward speeds, and three reverse speeds.
When I need to, I paddle with the motor on to conserve battery energy. I'm on the water 4-7 hours and I never ran out of power. It allows me to fish without paddling, troll at steadier speeds, have greater range, and have greater speed. I'm not as exhausted at the end of the trip too. The most I've used was 75% of the 85 amp-hour battery.
For other than Trident kayaks, you can do the same thing. If your existing lugs on the kayak are not in the right places, you'll have to drill holes in the kayak to support the crate.
Good luck! And see you on the water.
I did the installation summer of last year, and it has been working great. About $200, and no holes drilled in the kayak.
Parts/Material
- Minn Kota Endura 30 motor (30# thrust, 30" shaft. I heard this is among the most efficient motors on the market. It has a C2 designation now. Regularly cost $110, but I had a Dick's discount coupon)
- Minn Kota motor circuit breaker (optional, but I chose to have it to protect the motor. Cost $40)
- Costco Kirtland Marine battery (group size 24, 85 amp-hour, weighs 50 pounds, Cost $60)
- Sturdy crate (I already had this, and I don't know what it costs now. Don't use those cheap flimsy crates)
- Turnbuckles (You need four, preferable the open end ones. Cost $1-2 each at Home Depot)
- Misc hardware (loop screws, nuts, bolts, washers, wood screws)
- Two feet of 2 X 4 lumber
- 1/4 " plywood (about a 8" X 4" piece), and four other smaller pine/plywood pieces
- Outdoor spar urethane (optional, but I chose to finish the wood for protection)
I already had some parts/material, so it cost me about $200 to add the system.
Building the crate
- Decide if you want a left or right side motor mount
- Use a sturdy crate. There will be some flex when the motor is attached to the 2x4 support arm and when the motor is initially turned on to full throttle.
- Cut four (approx 2"X5") wood pieces to sandwich the sides of the crate. See pics. Two pieces per side. This is your crate bracing where the loop screws are attached for connection to the turnbuckles.
- Attach 2 foot long 2X4 support arm to crate. I used the 2x4 and approx 8"X4" plywood to sandwich the front of the crate. I flush mounted the screws. I positioned the 2X4 support arm such that it lay flat on the kayak. You'll have to check to make sure, when you mount the motor on the arm, the prop doesn't hit the hull when you rotate the motor for steering.
- Add wood pacers to bottom of crate. Since the crate doesn't fit perfectly in the cargo well, spacers are needed to prevent the crate from shifting. I attached/screwed a 1/2" X 1 " hardwood piece to the front bottom of the crate. See pic. Length depends on inside width of well. I didn't need one, but you might want a spacer toward the rear of crate too. Let me know if you can't picture this, and I'll send pics.
- Optional: Finish all wood with urethane
Installing crate and motor
- Mount crate. Locate kayak lugs. Attach turnbuckles. You'll have to determine the number of links needed to insure proper tightening of turnbuckles. Hand tighten only! You don't need to wrench it down to get the whole crate (with motor mounted) secure. And you don't want to rip out the kayak lugs.
- Mount motor. Of course, prepare the terminals first.
Power
- Battery fits nicely into the well, and it's spaced about an inch from the front of the crate. I think a larger 100+ amp hour will also fit. Note: It's this approximately 1 inch plastic space (part of the kayak) where the support arm rests.
- I use the blue rubber bath mat to cushion the battery, prevent it from shifting around, and provide some level of cover when flipped over the battery top.
- You can see the black circuit breaker on the top of the battery in the pic.
The motor handle extends out about 6-8 inches. It does not get in the way when I paddle. Five forward speeds, and three reverse speeds.
When I need to, I paddle with the motor on to conserve battery energy. I'm on the water 4-7 hours and I never ran out of power. It allows me to fish without paddling, troll at steadier speeds, have greater range, and have greater speed. I'm not as exhausted at the end of the trip too. The most I've used was 75% of the 85 amp-hour battery.
For other than Trident kayaks, you can do the same thing. If your existing lugs on the kayak are not in the right places, you'll have to drill holes in the kayak to support the crate.
Good luck! And see you on the water.
Comment