Battery to fish finder connectors

[XXXMedium]

Evenin' yall!

I wanted to ask a quick question. I am having a hell of a time with battery power. I used traditional electrical connectors and bought a marine grade quick disconnect to remove and charge the battery when I did the original install in January. I went on a little fishing trip this labor day weekend, landed the biggest fish of my life and did not have my fish finder working at all. Here is my question, What suggestions do you have for marine grade splices/connectors. I will add that I have the OCD and while I used standard electrical connectors I did use heat shrink tubing to reinforce and protect the connections. What I am looking for ideally is a great splice connector for joining two wires, ring terminals to the battery and a quick disconnect that will hold up long term. I stash that battery inside the hull of my PA12, so it does get moist in hull. I do have the battery glued to a large foam pad to stop movement and banging in the hull. Also should I put the battery in an enclosure?

Here is a pick of my giant fish to reward you for your share of knowledge

IMG_4728.jpg

[djsilvera]

Forgive my ignorance: black drum fish? Where'd you land it?

[XXXMedium]

Red - VA.

[M_Duong60]

This might be something along the lines of what you're looking for, a lot of people here also put dielectric grease on their connections. I don't do any of this personally but that's just because I'm too lazy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiNj4DAVa1E

[RavensDfense]

Red - VA.

Great fish! Also appreciate the detailed report

As far as your question, I have found that liquid electric tape works wonders. I'll use a standard waterproof splice connector (the ones you heat up to shrink wrap it down to the wires), followed by a layer of liquid electric tape. This has worked really good for me. I would also recommend storing your battery in a dry bag to help keep the moisture off of it.

[yakscientist]

I use this to store my battery https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Tactica.../dp/B0747JPRW4

I drilled a hole in the top of the box to run my wires through, and inserted a rubber grommet to keep out most of the water. The o-ring in the ammo can lid helps also, and I put a few pieces of cut up pipe insulation (pieces of a pool noodle would work too) to keep the battery from sitting on the bottom of the ammo box. They also help keep it in place. To connect the battery to the wires I just use simple slip on connectors, which I pinched closed onto the positive (with fuse) and negative wires, and finally I recently added a little dielectric grease around the connections. I used that setup extensively in my sit-in, and even on days in the ocean with lots of water coming over the sides, the FF never had power issues, though a few times I have drained a little water from the plano box. On another note, the 9ah battery I bought about 18 months ago still lasts for probably 10-12 hours or more just running my elite 4hdi. I had a similar battery before this one, and it's performance decreased quickly, and I blame that on a poor charger choice. Don't buy the chargers that are recommended, the ones that are like 5-$10, since they're really just low amperage power supplies, definitely use something with some sort of amp controller built it. I now use a $30 car battery charger, usually set to 2amp trickle charge, but I have charged it at 5 amps before if I need it in a hurry.

Now that I'm going to be fishing out of an Outback, I'm probably going to keep using my plano box, but just velcro it in place inside the hull.

[nhunter344]

I use a waterproof box similar to this one:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-w...-in-63518.html

With some waterproof pass-thrus

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this waterproof connector

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Ive never had corrosion problems with the connector and the battery and fuse (with extras) stay in the box. The case has pluckable foam so you can make it fit the battery so no fear of it rattling around. Battery is connected to wiring with slip on connectors with a coating of dielectric grease for good measure. I used marine goop on the inside of the box around the pass-thru as an extra layer of protection. The box is velcroed to the inside of the kayak. Ive never had an issue.

I need to try that liquid electric tape as I recently had some waterproof "marine grade" heat shrink tubing fail on me.

[Jaspratt]

I use a dry box to house my battery, for connectors, I use a brass threaded 2 prong plu that has a rubber gasket. No moisture in or out. On top of that I use grease to help sheild the male plug from moisture. The box I use fits snuggly between the two scupper holes under the seat.

[DonV]

I have never had any problems with my battery being in a dry box with the wires routed though a sealed hole. For connectors I just use flat two wire trailer type connectors I picked up at Advance Auto and they have been going for about five years. I do use dielectric grease on the connections on the connectors and also those on the back of the FF. Whole setup was only about $10 to make with the drybox being from Walmart. Bonus of using the flat trailer connectors is that may battery charger came with the same connector making charging a breeze, no need to open the box to charge just take out my battery box and plug in the adapter.

Battery box
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Outdoor-P...-Blue/26674163
Two wire trailer connector
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965.../dp/B0002Q80RW

[ronaultmtd]

The biggest culprit of battery issues for us Kayakers are the wires...you simply cannot use standard gage wire you buy at a auto parts store and wire up your battery...untinned standard wire is not made to survive marine applications...it corrodes like crazy. Marine grade “tinned” wire costs more and is carried at marine dealers like West Marine and local boat repair shops...and you can order it on line. Using standard wire is asking for problems...it will work perfectly on day one...may last an entire season, but it probably won’t.

[john from md]

I have never had any problems with my battery being in a dry box with the wires routed though a sealed hole. For connectors I just use flat two wire trailer type connectors I picked up at Advance Auto and they have been going for about five years. I do use dielectric grease on the connections on the connectors and also those on the back of the FF. Whole setup was only about $10 to make with the drybox being from Walmart. Bonus of using the flat trailer connectors is that may battery charger came with the same connector making charging a breeze, no need to open the box to charge just take out my battery box and plug in the adapter.

Battery box
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Outdoor-P...-Blue/26674163
Two wire trailer connector
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965.../dp/B0002Q80RW

I use the same kind of setup and never had any problems. I don't even keep the battery in a bag. I just have dielectric grease on the terminals.

[DOGFISH]

I would use the appropriate size quick connector. I use the flat type with the heat seal cover. That way once you crimp your connectors, you then heat shrink the tube to the wire. This helps seal and hold the crimp secure. I do not use a battery box. The battery is plastic. Simply rinse the battery off after use. Unless being used in really salty water a battery will hold up well even if not rinsed. If it is sitting up right any water usually won't hit the metal terminals.