Kayak wheels

[CAGE RATTLER]

The piece I got is called a 3/4 x 1/2 adapter (part no. 436-074). It looks similar to, but not exactly like the ones in the photo. First a small length of 3/4" pipe is glued into the T fitting. The small, threaded end of the adapter slides tightly into the 3/4" pipe (maybe too tightly). I may need to sand off the threads to get a better fit. The 1/2" all thread runs nicely through the narrow end of the adaptor.

To improve stability, I may make the wheelbase wider than the scupper hole separation. My all-thread is 24" long. Once I have the system dry-assembled, I will experiment with different wheel spacing, up to and including the entire length of all-thread. Then I will glue it together.

Part # 436-074 is the same ones I picked up as well. I was going to use the slip fit end and cut the the threaded portion off. I think i will check out lowest for a different reducer.
I got the 5/8th inch all thread. That's the size I've seen used on all the DIY carts I've found online and it fits the wheels I picked up perfectly.

[J.A. Veil]

Part # 436-074 is the same ones I picked up as well. I was going to use the slip fit end and cut the the threaded portion off. I think i will check out lowest for a different reducer.
I got the 5/8th inch all thread. That's the size I've seen used on all the DIY carts I've found online and it fits the wheels I picked up perfectly.

If you are sure you have 5/8" all-thread, then a 1/2" adapter will be too small (the all-thread will not fit inside). I don't know if they make 5/8" adapters. If not, you could just use the 3/4" pipe and have a little slop.

[Yak Fish]

For what it's worth, make sure the cart floats. I'm not sure how you other guys do it, but I remove the cart in the water by lifting up the back end of the kayak and let if fall out. I'll then collect the floating cart.

[Southerly]

"If not, you could just use the 3/4" pipe and have a little slop."

might wrap the axle w/tape to reduce clearance?

[CAGE RATTLER]

I've seen alot plans on the net and.there's alot of different ways to do it.
One had a similar setup and just used end caps and drilled a hole through it.
I'll probably use what I have and put the reducer on with the slip fit end. Then cut the threaded section off so its flat and not tapered. Then drill the opening to fit the all thread.

I'm also thinking about using a nut and washer on both sides so I'm not tightening against the pvc. Also thinking about making a wider wheelbase. How it sits on the yak when storing on top will probably determine the width.

[MetroMan]

For what it's worth, make sure the cart floats. I'm not sure how you other guys do it, but I remove the cart in the water by lifting up the back end of the kayak and let if fall out. I'll then collect the floating cart.

+1. I launch backwards, back the yak till the stern is afloat, then move the yak aside and let the cart float out. (or I just pull the cart from underneath)

[Shady]

This is the one that I made:
http://www.pierandsurf.com/fishing-f...highlight=cart

This one is obviously for a sit in kayak but you could alter the design to make it work for a sit on top.

[CAGE RATTLER]

Here are plans for another one i found that uses a solid aluminum rod for the axle with cotter pins.
http://www.yakangler.com/forum/21-lo.../31-kayak-cart

As for floating, I imagine the pneumatic tires i used should take care of that along with some pipe insulation on the cross bar.

I put mine together tonight but havent glued anything yet.
I found a 3/4" extender at lowes to use on the end of the frame before the wheels.
It still didnt have a section where the axle fit through tightly. Its a long extender with 1.25" for the slip fitting and then a threaded end. I cut off the threaded end and realized my 5/8ths nuts fit right inside it nice and snug so i drove the nuts in, slipped the axle through the frame and screwed those end pieces on and was able to tighten the whole bottom section by hand. Even with the nuts in the xtender I still got 3/4" of pipe inside it as well. That axle is rock solid now and i havent even glued anything. I also picked up some nylok nuts for the outside of the wheels so i wont have to worry about them coming loose. Only problem there would be they wont be easy to take off. I was thinking about some wing nuts or drilling a hole and putting in a spring clip.

The whole frame is 16" tall without the wheels on and 20.75" tall with the wheels on and with the extenders i used it gave me a 24" wheel base. I have the tubing coming through the scupper holes about 3". On a test run found that when i pick it up from the front handle, Its pretty level to the ground. I think it should work out pretty good.

Thinking about not gluing the upper section to the axle section. Being able to pull that apart will let me stow the whole thing in the front hatch even with the drop in liner in. Both wheels will fit in the very front. With the whole frame glued it wont fit. At 1st I figured when my truck was far from a launch I could stow the whole setup in the back, stuck through the scupper holes upside down but the tires will be right at my elbows and in the way of the rear rod holders. Might have to give it a test run to see how it is there.

[Grilled]

i made this one after losing my hobie wheels at HRBT couple weeks ago..

[CAGE RATTLER]

i made this one after losing my hobie wheels at HRBT couple weeks ago..

Nice job.
I thought about going with the center support and actually bought the extra T's

[J.A. Veil]

Last evening I built my new wheels set. My scupper holes must taper toward the upper end because the pipe does not come all the way through. The pipe goes into the holes only about 3.5".

I continued eyeballing the lengths of each piece of pipe and manually pushed them together. All the joints are a tight fit. The sturdy wheels came off of an old lawn spreader. They are 9" diameter and 2" wide. I used a 24" x 1/2" diameter piece of all thread for the axle. Although the spacing of the uprights is about 10" apart, when the 3/4" x 1/2" adapter pieces were added, the wheel spacing used up nearly the entire piece of all thread.

It was too wet to try it out last night. This afternoon I rolled the kayak out of the basement and up the yard to the driveway. The wheels set felt very solid with no flexing. I initially placed the wheels in the rear-most set of scupper holes. They worked fine there, but the balance was a bit off. Once I was in the driveway, I tried using them in another set of scuppers amidship. They fit equally well there, plus the kayak rolled more smoothly with less strain on my back. I'm glad to see that I will have multiple options for scupper insertion depending on the terrain.

Originally, I had planned to reinforce the uprights and the cross bar with a piece of metal electrical conduit. I also had full intention of gluing the joints together. Now that I have tested it in my yard, I don't see much reason to add the conduit or to glue the joints that are already very tight (once I glue, I can never adjust without cutting and buying new Ts. The current design has no long sections of pipe other than to cover the axle. I have one particular launch location that requires a 50 yd uphill drag from the water to the parking spot. I will test the rig under those conditions, then make the final decision about gluing and reinforcing.

I am happy now that the project is finished. It turned out to be far easier than I imagined. I spent much longer researching the design, buying the pieces, and getting up the nerve to start the cutting than I did in making the wheels. My total outlay for new parts was:

$5.30 1 - 10' x 3/4" PVC pipe (I used less than half of it)
$1.44 4 - 3/4" Ts @$0.36
$1.28 2 - 3/4" x 1/2" male adapters @$0.64
$0.80 2 - washers and 2 - nuts @$0.20
$3.14 1 - 24" x 1/2" allthread
$11.96 Subtotal + 6% tax = $12.68

I already had the wheels, so that was a savings. Unless I change my mind later, I can return the conduit and PVC glue to Home Depot.

Thanks to those who offered suggestions and posted photos and links. They all helped me to settle on a plan.

[J.A. Veil]

Here are photos showing the wheels in the rear scuppers and the amidship scuppers.

[CAGE RATTLER]

John, if the uprights do not come through the scupper holes you should not use that setup.
You will need a setup that your yak will lay on instead.

You will crack the plastic at the scupper holes if they don't stick out the top acording to my research.

I'll post some links and pics when I get home tonight.
To hard to do on my phone.

[CAGE RATTLER]

Are you sure your scupper holes wont allow the pvc to go straight through?
Try taking a a piece of pipe by itself and insert it through the top till it comes out the bottom and see if it angled or not.

Im only asking because i found this link that shows a scupper cart built for a manta ray that goes all the way through. Its obviously not the same type of cart yours is but the principal of the scupper posts is the same. His kayak is older I believe so that may be the difference.

http://www.knology.net/amaroney/fun/...g/kayaking.htm

If your scupper holes are angled, you definitely dont want to use a scupper cart. You will be putting alot of stress on the insides of the scuppers and can cause the plastic to crack. The weight of the kayak should be on the cross bar of the cart and the uprights need to go all the way through so they are not gouging into the insides of the scuppers.

[medicyaker]

Well, here are my new wheels. Over the Holiday weekend, Surfdog built my Yak wheels (I only held everything as it was being assembled and made a trip to return all the wrong stuff I bought). It was an easy project to do from where I was standing... LOL. Anyway, I'm gonna try to post a pic on here. I'm hoping to someday swap out the Pneumatic tires for a Hobie Type set of wheels. Anyway, Thanks SD
Tom