Need some input regarding FF placement, etc

[john from md]

I am outfitting my Trident 13 Angler and need some experienced yak fisher input as to whether my plans will work.

A.
I am planning to install my HB 597 on the front part of the MOD POD instead of under the Sonar Shield. My reason for this is that the Sonar Shield is too far away for me to reach when seated and I like to change views as I am fishing. Plus it will be easier for me to see.

I have two ways to run the wiring. 1) through the top of the MOD POD and 2) out the back of the mount and around the of the Sonar Shield entering the hull under the Sonar Shield. I haven't decided which way to go.

I have considered adding a RAM mount or Gear Trax on the gunnel but the Trident doesn't have enough room.

B.
For my anchor cleat, I want to ad a Cam Cleat. Since I want to use nut and bolt fasteners, I am limited to where I can reach under the deck. I am thinking of putting it next to my left calf about where the side carrying handle is . Does anyone see any reason this won't work? My anchor trolley is on the left side BTW.

TIA,

[Pinch]

use duct seal or 3m double sided tape and place everthing where you think you want it. Sit in the kayak (in a pool or shallow lake if possible) and play with it. measure twice cut once.

[Redfish12]

There is a small gap between sonar shield and mod pod, you could go through there?

[ronaultmtd]

use duct seal or 3m double sided tape and place everthing where you think you want it. Sit in the kayak (in a pool or shallow lake if possible) and play with it. measure twice cut once.

plus 1

[john from md]

"There is a small gap between sonar shield and mod pod, you could go through there? "

I assume you mean for the FF wiring. I don't think that will work as I won't have any slack for removing the mod pod cover. If I go through the mod pod, the wires will be in the hull, if I go through the sonor shield area, the slack can be coiled under the sonar shield. If I were to put them through the space between the two, I would have to seal it and the extra wires would remain on deck in the way.

Thanks for trying though.

[Redfish12]

I mean... Use a removable mount for the mod pod so you can remove the df. Run the wires through the gap and seal with goop or a deck fitting. You can also put a loop in to hold the wires down when not in use. I used the sonar shield for mine, but I'm pretty flexible or I use my toes.

[john from md]

Redfish 12,

Ahh, now I see what you mean. Like put a ram ball on the front of the mod pod. That's better than having the HB mount. I like that idea.

Pinch and ronaltmtd,

I have already spent several hours sitting in the yak on the garage floor. I agree it is not on the water but it will suffice. I was able to determine where I can locate the FF so that I can reach it and it does not interfere with my paddling.

Any comments on my cam cleat location?

[Redfish12]

I put my cleat by my right thigh, anchor trolley is on the right side. It is close enough to unhook easily but I'm not the best guy to give comment. I hardly ever anchor!

Check out kayak Kevin's set up video, same kayak.

[ronaultmtd]

I put my cleat by my right thigh, anchor trolley is on the right side. It is close enough to unhook easily but I'm not the best guy to give comment. I hardly ever anchor!

Check out kayak Kevin's set up video, same kayak.

Same as Redfish- I have my clam cleat just behind the seating area on my right side. Same side as the trolley- and when I fish for catfish, I always anchor.

[john from md]

I viewed the video, thanks for the link. That guy Kevin is has found a fun way to make a living!

From the responses, I am on the right track. This weekend I'll probably put the cleat after I sit in it one more time (measure trice, cut once ).

[mango]

Not sure if this would be of any help here. I also fish the in a prowler 13 and thought the same thing, sonar shield ssemed too far away to reach at my FF to make adjustments. My mod pod did not come with the newer delux cover as I call it. Mine was plain and doesn't have the all the built in rod or accessory abilities. So for me, not really loosing anything here, I opted to make my own mod pod cover from a piece of Mahogany. it has a lip I routed out around the edge so it drops in the opening 1/2" and seals up pretty well, I still use the straps. Mounted the FF and a scotty mount about halfway down. Went over to West Marine for a SS hinge. Take your arm with you cause anything at West Marine will cost you that much at the least, but hey, when they have what youn need on a shelf, you get the idea. So about a 1/3rd of the way up from the seat, I cut my lid and installed the hinge so now I have access into my hull. I just haven't cut the hull open yet waiting to see how water tight this thing would be. So far dry, with not much rough water to have really put it to the test though. The strap closest to your seat holds down the opening lid, so you do need to undue the one strap to gain access. Just a thought, I like to tinker with wood. I ran my wires right down through the hull under the mod pod and used a grommet to close up any gaps....Now if I could just get my 385ci to work. checked battery-al good. Took the FF back to WM and they put it on a simulator and it worked fine. For me on the water, it will not even come on?>?X^@$.

Good Luck

[john from md]

"Now if I could just get my 385ci to work. checked battery-al good. Took the FF back to WM and they put it on a simulator and it worked fine. For me on the water, it will not even come on?>?X^@$. "

Mango,

Assuming you can't readily disconnect your FF power cord, take your FF to Radio Shack and buy a couple of pins that will fit in the unit so that you can power it up. Also buy some small jumper wires with alligator clips. If you don't have a VOM (volt, ohm, multimeter) by a cheap one from Harbor Freight for $4 to $6 dollars.

Take the stuff to your yak and, using the pins and jumper wires, hook up your unit to the yak battery. Next, connect the leads of the multimeter to the battery. If the meter is set right, you should get 12.6 or so volts if your battery is good. Turn the unit on and watch the voltage. If the voltage drops appreciably, your battery is not holding a charge.

You may see 12 + volts on a battery without a load but there is no amperage behind it.

If this test shows the same voltage, then check your power connection for corrosion on the pins or the pigtails where you tied the wires together.

Hope this helps,

[ronaultmtd]

The power plug at the mount maybe reversed. Turn the power plug over and plug it in- I had my 570di do the same thing- the power plug at the plug in mount was backwards

[mango]

Thanks guys for the insight, will give it all a try.