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  • #16
    What size axle do you need? I got some weels from Harbour Freight that needed a 5/8" axle but I couldn't find one anywhere. Then a guy at my local hardware store suggested using a section of 1/2" copper plumbing pipe, it is 1/2" inner diameter and 5/8" outer diameter. It fit perfectly.
    Hobie PA 12

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    • #17
      FYI If looking for metals, any type, try EJ Metals in Glenn Burnie. They sell to the public, although you may have to buy 12' lengths, but this may still be cheaper or same as if you order a 3' piece online. Also stop by and check the 'cut off' or scrap bins or call them and tell them what you arer looking for as they have special order stuff people did not pick up that may work for you. Anything from the bins is sold by weight (recycle rate as that is what they do with it). They'd have solid rod, even in SS, or aluminum, if you wanted. usually lots of solid rod scraps in the bins but I don't get by there much anymore.

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      • #18
        Here are some pics of the problems I had with the last kayak cart. The design has the aluminum axle running inside of the bottom PVC pipe. I used adapters on each end of the PVC pipe to shrink the hole from 3/4" to 1/2" for less wiggle room. I tried to reinforce the top "T's" (with the pool noodle on it) using an oak dowel rod. Apparently that didn't work. As I was taking my cart downhill through the soft sand at CHSP, one of the carrier T's snapped off and my stuff went all over the side of the sand dune. I think I made the cart too tall, and as I pulled through the sand, maybe I was in a hurry because only the front edge of the PVC blew out, not the back. I'm thinking the base of the cart was trying to keep up with me, and the force was finally too much. I'm looking into making another design that has an inverted triangle coming up off the axle. Instead of Schedule 40, I've tired going with the thicker-walled Schedule 80 PVC this time around. I'll post a picture of what I'm thinking in my head as soon as I can figure out how to draw it!
        Any comments/suggestions are welcomed.
        Attached Files

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        • #19
          Here are two other thoughts.

          1) Try using a slightly wider wheelbase. I use 24" stainless steel all-thread for my axle -- it is very rigid.

          2) If your uprights are not rigid enough, consider placing electrical conduit pipe inside of them. The design on which I based my cart used the conduit, although once I built mine, I realized I would not need it.

          Here are some photos of the cart I made. I cut one or two pieces at a time, put them together to check the fit, then cut the next piece. I never glued my cart -- it is solid without glue.
          Attached Files
          John Veil
          Annapolis
          Native Watercraft Manta Ray 11, Falcon 11

          Author - "Fishing in the Comfort Zone" , "Fishing Road Trip - 2019", "My Fishing Life: Two Years to Remember", and "The Way I Like to Fish -- A Kayak Angler's Guide to Shallow Water, Light Tackle Fishing"

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          • #20
            Alright...here it goes. I tried utilizing some Smartboard software I use to teach to make a "mock" of the design I'm looking to build. It's not going to be that colorful...just for diagramming the pieces/parts I'm using.

            Blue: 3/4" PVC80 T(slip)
            Red: 3/4" PVC80 90 elbow (slip)
            Green: 3/4" PVC80 45 elbow (slip)
            Purple: 3/4" PVC 80 crossbars used to connect the two sides together
            Black: 3/4" PVC 80 used in constructing the diamond-shaped frames
            Yellow: Furniture-grade PVC 4-way Connector
            Orange: Pool Noodle used for protecting boat hull/improving hull grip.

            I'm going to try and keep this thing as low-profile as I can...any suggested alterations in the design? Can you see any weaknesses? If so, how could they be reinforced...or should I save myself the hassle and just buy a Wheeleez cart...
            Attached Files

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            • #21
              I grabbed it at Lowes last night. However, I can't find anyplace around here that sells furniture-grade PVC for the 4-way connectors I need in the new design. So, I guess I'll have to order them online somewhere and wait til they get in. It cost me roughly $50 in supplies (re-using my axle and wheels) to get the PVC80 I need to get the job done. I'm wondering if I should simply say to heck with it and buy the Wheeleez Mini.

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              • #22
                Schedule 80?!?! Furniture grade?!?! What are you guys doing?!?! I use schedule 40 and have had no problems. It is plenty strong. And my yak is as heavy or heavier than yours. I also built a yak loader (attaches to the back of my minivan) to load the yak on top. The loader is plenty strong. I've been using my DIY loader and cart for over three years. No problems, no breakage.

                Matt,
                I see your problem. You use a too small diameter PVC. That's why it broke. I use 1 1/4 " dia pipe. A pipe with larger diameter is stronger than a smaller diameter pipe because the distributed stress is less on the potential break points. The moment arm from the rail (from carrying your yak) created stresses that obviously broke your cart. You need to go to larger dia PVC.

                Also, 1/2" dia rod is plenty strong. You don't need 5/8" dia. The wheeleez comes with 1/2" bore (I don't remember if they make 5/8" bore).
                Last edited by tufnik; 06-13-2012, 02:54 PM.
                2015 Hobie Outback (yellow)
                2011 Hobie Outback (yellow)
                2009 OK Prowler Trident 13 Angler (orange)

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                • #23
                  Tufnik,

                  So you're saying that I need to upgrade to Wheeleez tires, keep the design the way it is, and beef up the cart to 1 1/4" piping? Are you talking the 24cm or the 30cm tires?

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                  • #24
                    I haven't tried the other wheels (e.g. jjoley's suggested wheels), but they look like they'll do fine. I can only say my wheeleez works well.

                    Yes, I think your 1st design looks fine. It's similar to my design. Yes, you need to beef up the pipes.

                    Suggestions:
                    - Use larger dia PVC; use minimum of 1 1/4"
                    - Try to design the frame low; the 12" wheels already give you good height; Why low? You minimize the torque (and stresses) on the frame as you pull the yak over holes, bumps, etc. You don't want the frame to bend/yield too much from the loads. Go back and look at my pics. See the short distance between the rails and the axle?
                    - I haven't tried the smaller wheeleez, but it should do fine; I felt the larger wheel would give me the option for heavier loads, so I bought it; If I had the choice again, I would buy the larger wheel because I also use the wheels for another cart design for hauling surf fishing gear on sandy beaches; so, it's your choice on what wheel you prefer.
                    - Your second design looks fine also; in fact, it looks like you could go with less than 1 1/4 " PVC, but I personally would be safe and go for a sturdier frame.
                    - For PVC, specifically use PVC glue/primer, not some other glue. I tried other glue and it wasn't as strong as PVC glue.

                    Hope that helps.
                    Last edited by tufnik; 06-13-2012, 04:44 PM.
                    2015 Hobie Outback (yellow)
                    2011 Hobie Outback (yellow)
                    2009 OK Prowler Trident 13 Angler (orange)

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                    • #25
                      a few more pics of my golf cart mod and details

                      stripped off the bag holders and cut plastic 1X4 to suitable lengths and used 1-1/2" decking screws to assemble a rail system that would accept the keel. the wheels are a lightweight foam/ rubber that carries well over most surfaces but I have yet to encounter soft sand like you'd find on the beach in OC


                      shown folded= I really don't need the rails this long as you'll see it does not compact enough when folded


                      with kayak strapped on. scupper hole mod would be simple with the 4" rails but it only takes seconds to secure the strap


                      even shortened it would take up valuable storage space. I have another variation I'm toying with (cast aluminum wheel arms)
                      Most of the places I use it I can chain it to a tree/or bench (or hide it in the bushes (poison Ivy works as a great deterrent to theft) to avoid extra trips to the truck

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