Originally posted by chexone
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-Mustafa
ابو مسقوف AbuMasgouf (Aboo-Mas-goof ): Fish Roast Papa
2016 Hobie Outback
2012 Hobie Revolution 13
"Be humble to whomever you learn from and whomever you teach."-- Imam al-Sadiq (as)
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Originally posted by chexone View PostRemove that clip from the rope. It's not needed. Pass your rope through the anchor trolley ring and cleat it. It helps to have a float on your rope, so that if you do have to quick-release, you can find your anchor
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2015 Viking Profish Reload
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Originally posted by AbuMasgouf View PostDude that's a cool sketch! Did you just throw that together?
Ok that makes a lot of sense. I can replace my ring with the clip that's now on the rope so I can easily put my line through it like the image. My excess rope is on the 'rope hanger' (you know the thing the ropes sometimes are wrapped around when you buy them), so if I were to quick release my rope from the cleat wouldn't that get stuck on the clip/carabiner? What do you do with the excess? Also, with the set-up in the image, where would you put your float? Would you secure it or would it be free floating? and if free floating would you just knot the end or something to prevent it from slipping out?
Thanks for your help bro!___________________________________
2015 Viking Profish Reload
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I can't take credit for the illustration, i just found it online.
No need to replace your ring, but it does make it easier if you have a clip. With the ring, you have to thread the entire rope through.
Get rid of the rope hangar... it will get stuck otherwise. Just loop the excess rope and place it on the rear deck.
The float goes between the ring and the anchor. Get a float that's like an egg sinker so that it can slide on the rope. Tie a knot at the very end of your rope so that the knot can still go through the ring, but not through the float.
I would suggest getting a separate cleat... see here for some ideas: http://www.snaggedline.com/showthrea...hor-line-cleat
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Thanks bro! I really appreciate all the info-Mustafa
ابو مسقوف AbuMasgouf (Aboo-Mas-goof ): Fish Roast Papa
2016 Hobie Outback
2012 Hobie Revolution 13
"Be humble to whomever you learn from and whomever you teach."-- Imam al-Sadiq (as)
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My pleasure... I learned all I know from others on this forum.
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Thanks for the shout out bro. I always push myself to ask newbie questions because I've always benefited from them in my research when someone else asked them in the past. Plus, the more I'm informed the better I can help others as well and keep passing it on just like Mike did.-Mustafa
ابو مسقوف AbuMasgouf (Aboo-Mas-goof ): Fish Roast Papa
2016 Hobie Outback
2012 Hobie Revolution 13
"Be humble to whomever you learn from and whomever you teach."-- Imam al-Sadiq (as)
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For anchoring to bridge pilings, you can use a mini wreck anchor, which can attach to plant growth on the piling... never tried it, but I know Kayak Kevin uses one.
And see here for various kayak anchor setups from Rob Choi: http://www.yakangler.com/kayak-riggi...-anchor-setups
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If your anchor is already deployed and you see a large wake or wave approaching, can't you just release your rope from the cleat? That way, slack is in the anchor rope and will give with the motion of the wake. Once everything settles down, reinstall the rope to the cleat. No need to unclip the rope from the trolley clip
Is my logic correct?? I purchased an anchor kit with float, but I replaced the rope with a longer piece. I also have this wrapped in a rope holder to keep things consolidated. I am afraid if I have to bail out and toss the whole kit overboard, the float will not stay above water with the added weight of the rope holder (it's only a piece of plastic).
I have never used my anchor, but I have a feeling I will need it at the Jamboree!2015 OLIVE HOBIE OUTBACK
2013 OLIVE HOBIE OUTBACK
2013 OCEAN KAYAK TRIDENT 13
JEREMY D
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Yeah, you can create enough slack for a wave by just uncleating. But sometimes, you may need to separate yourself from the anchor... Like when you have a huge fish on and you need to follow it. You don't have time to pick up your anchor. You have to let it go. Now this is really an edge case. I've seen Kayak Kevin do it in his videos when fishing for big reds in the latimer shoals. Me, on the other hand, big fish? Nah! Lol.
But I would advise against having a rope holder that would prevent the entire rope from going through the anchor trolley ring. You never know when you might need to abandon your anchor, and even if you're using a carabiner as your ring, you will not be able to unclip it in time to avert the disaster. And imagine you cannot get your anchor up... It's stuck. In that case you better either have a carabiner or be able to let all the rope out.
These are just "best practices" that none of us will hopefully ever have to rely on.
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Originally posted by chexone View PostFor anchoring to bridge pilings, you can use a mini wreck anchor, which can attach to plant growth on the piling... never tried it, but I know Kayak Kevin uses one.
And see here for various kayak anchor setups from Rob Choi: http://www.yakangler.com/kayak-riggi...-anchor-setups
I was going to get one of these while I was over there but the store ran out of them.
Outback 2015
Maui
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The guide I fished with in Florida this week rigs his anchor trolley with the two ends of the trolley cord tied to the same stainless steel ring (about 1" diameter). He slides a 12" piece of pool noodle onto the upper end of the anchor line and attaches a sturdy clip to the end. When deploying the anchor, you attach the clip to the ring on the trolley and drop the anchor overboard. If the clip is disconnected from the ring, the end of the anchor line floats.
005.jpg
We used this rig much of the time in very shallow grass flats (1-3 ft) in order to hold our position for casting into sandy depressions downwind. The wind would move us in a downwind direction. By pulling the anchor trolley to full front, full rear, or middle, I could easily change the angle at which the boat was oriented to allow easier casting directions. He also had a trolley on both sides of the kayak, allowing even more flexibility in selecting bow angle.
Here in Maryland, I have only used an anchor occasionally (not optimized like the guide's rig) in deep water (Mattawoman for catfish or Perryville for yellow perch) or in strong current (Ocean City near the Rt 50 bridge).John Veil
Annapolis
Native Watercraft Manta Ray 11, Falcon 11
Author - "Fishing in the Comfort Zone" , "Fishing Road Trip - 2019", "My Fishing Life: Two Years to Remember", and "The Way I Like to Fish -- A Kayak Angler's Guide to Shallow Water, Light Tackle Fishing"
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Originally posted by AbuMasgouf View PostDude that's a cool sketch! Did you just throw that together?
Ok that makes a lot of sense. I can replace my ring with the clip that's now on the rope so I can easily put my line through it like the image. My excess rope is on the 'rope hanger' (you know the thing the ropes sometimes are wrapped around when you buy them), so if I were to quick release my rope from the cleat wouldn't that get stuck on the clip/carabiner? What do you do with the excess? Also, with the set-up in the image, where would you put your float? Would you secure it or would it be free floating? and if free floating would you just knot the end or something to prevent it from slipping out?
Thanks for your help bro!
2012 Hobie Revo 13'
2012 Hobie PA12'
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