diy kayak cart(roughly$25)

[Strummerfan]

Parts list

4 pvc T's
5' pvc
2 pvc endcaps
4 5/8" nuts
2 5/8" washers
2 5/8" lock washers
2 10" pneumatic tires from Harbor Freight(5/8" arbor)
3' 5/8" all thread
1 4' section pool noodle
roughly 10' of paracord

Everything except the pool noodle and tires came from Lowes. I didn't glue any of the pvc joints so it could be disassembled and stowed on board. The axle portion is held together with nuts and lock washers. Assembly time was roughly 35 minutes.
Quick assembly
drill a 5/8" hole in each end cap
cut two pieces of pvc 1 1/4"
cut one piece of pvc 10 1/2"
connect the cap to one of the 1 1/4" and the other end to a T
Connect the other side of the T to the 10 1/2" piece and repeat.
You should end up with cap-short pvc-T-longer pvc-T-short pvc-cap
Then slide the all thread threw the pvc. Put a lock washer and then nut on each side followed by a tire, washer, and nut.
I might add a horizontal support below the pool noodles if the paracord doesn't keep it from separating. This is easily achieved by making 2 cuts and adding two more t's. If I were to do it again I might use smaller pcv for the kayak supports. That way the pool noodle doesn't need to be cut and tied or taped on.

[archeryrob]

I like it all except the rope on the noodle, I think it will be a weak link. Smaller on the PVC means weaker PVC also. I bet a small bit of RTV would hold the noodle in place and be easy to scrape off if you need to replace the noodle. Then you will not need smaller pipe. What pipe is that 3/4" or 1"? Tractor supply carries the same tires, if your not in the city, then you don't have to order them.

Nice job!

[Strummerfan]

I like it all except the rope on the noodle, I think it will be a weak link. Smaller on the PVC means weaker PVC also. I bet a small bit of RTV would hold the noodle in place and be easy to scrape off if you need to replace the noodle. Then you will not need smaller pipe. What pipe is that 3/4" or 1"? Tractor supply carries the same tires, if your not in the city, then you don't have to order them.

Nice job!

Thanks, but I can't take credit for it. I saw it or something similar somewhere online, but can't remember where. I'm not a huge fan of the paracord either, but the pool noodle wouldn't fit without spitting it. Good call on the silicone, that would be an easy solution. Another option could be using that black copper pipe insulation. It's cheap, pre-split, and has an adhesive to hold it together. They might sell pool noodles with larger holes, but I saw this for a dollar at a store next to Dick's Sporting Goods and purchased it without a 2nd thought.

I used 1" OD pvc for the whole thing. The tires came from Harbor Freight in Laurel. Lowes has some, but they were 2x the price. Also most of their selection were 1/2" arbor except for one option that had multiple sized arbors at $20 per tire. After giving it some thought overnight adding a horizontal piece that keeps the uprights from scissoring is almost definitely needed.

[tufnik]

Ditto on the rope/noodle as the weak link. I think you should have added two tees half way up on each of the vertical PVCs with a horizontal cross beam connecting the two verticals. That way you get rid of the rope and minimize the spreading when the yak sits on top. It's not too late, and you can still add the cross beam.

I also use at least 1 1/2 " dia PVC because the stresses will be pretty good. I've used my DIY cart for three years with no bending/stress problems.

Anyway, good work. Your design can also accommodate balloon tires should you decide to pull the yak across sand. My design has both tire types: narrow knobbies and wide balloons.

[JKay]

I've made several PVC carts and would agree on the horizontal cross beam. The real downside to the ones I built are that they are not able to be disassembled. That's fine if your vehicle is close; kind of a pain in the neck if it's a ways off.

To get a pool noodle over the PVC, try sharpening the end of a scrap piece of PVC with a belt sander. You can then take that and use the sharpened end of the PVC to cut a cylinder out of the pool noodle that is slightly undersized. This is good, since the pool noodle will be a tight fit on the PVC.

IMG_0402-1.jpg

[rwh]

I made pretty much the same cart. I used 1" PVC and if you get the larger (jumbo) pool noodles, they go onto the pvc pretty snug with no problem.
IMAG0114.jpg

[JKay]

I made pretty much the same cart. I used 1" PVC and if you get the larger (jumbo) pool noodles, they go onto the pvc pretty snug with no problem.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6548[/ATTACH]

Nice! Looks like everyone is keyed into the Harbor Freight wheels.

[Aaronjp84]

All,

I started on this project today using a mix of strummerfans and RWH pictures.

Strummer, I used your design for the axle..........Your instructions don't mention cutting the all thread, but I have to assume you did. With 2x T's, 1x 10-1/2" PVC, 2x 1-1/4" PVC, 2x end caps, 2x lock washers, 2x lock nuts, tires, then nuts, there is still a considerable amount (6-8 inches) of all thread. Did you leave one side with the overhang and then cut, or did you cut and measure prior? Do you happen to know the end length of the all thread?

RWH, I used your design for the mid cross bar, but I have to ask what purpose does the T on the axle serve? Is it just for extra stability? Also, what is the purpose of elasticity between the beams that make contact with the kayak? (Paracord or bungie cord)

[rwh]

The tee on the crossbar is so that you can insert a length of pvc (not glued) into to serve as a handle to position the cart under the yak. It also serves as sort of a kick stand. The paracord is just to keep the two top rail pieces with the pool noodle from swinging in opposite directions as the top parts are not glued so that it can be easily taken apart for storage in the hatch. I can't take any credit for the design. I used the instructions from a guide on Palmetto Kayak's web page. It has step by step instructions:

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...build.html?m=1