Thanks Palmetto Kayak Fishing - PVC Cart

[mweber02]

Just finished my DIY cart, so happy to be done carrying my kayak from the back yard of my townhouse to the car and back again.

Super easy build, and the estimated price was right on the money. 1/2 the price of the one I saw at BPS.

Realistically, it probably took just as long cleaning up all the PVC mess from the miter saw as it did to prep and build it.

I think I got lucky, the PVC fit in the joints pretty tight and didn't seem to need glue, just a few smacks with a rubber mallet. I don't think the pool noodle was a "jumbo" but it still fit on snug and shouldn't need any help from a bungee or paracord to stay secure.

I definitely recommend cutting the threaded rod to a "custom" length as suggested in the plans. Mine ended needing to be a 1/2 inch longer

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...art-build.html

[missedshed]

I made on similar to this one about 12 years ago. It still works great and haven't had to do a thing to it since day one. I don't use a handle on mine and I use ratchet straps instead to keep it super tight to keep it from coming lose pulling through sand or when it hits something. The bolt idea is great... My wheel rod I had drilled a hole and used a cotter pin. It was to originally fit into my hatch but one wheel sits to high in the hatch to close. I might have to look into switching that rod up and using that bolt style. Cart building is a lot cheaper, cost me about 30 bucks back than.

[ronaultmtd]

Mine cracked at the PVC elbows and I ended up ordering a Hobie HD Beach Wheez cart-

[CAGE RATTLER]

youll find out soon enough that you need to glue those joints.

[mweber02]

I'll definitely keep checking the joints from time to time. Right now I actually can't get them apart if I wanted to.

[rob-kayak]

Got to love the cart !! I don't know if you have straps yet... but REI sells a two pack of 15foot straps for about $15.

You can put one small screw at the places you would have glued.. this will at least keep the tubes from accidentally coming apart.
I loved my cart so much I built another beach cart 4x3 with 13 inch wheels and all the joints are held together with two small screws.


I find that the handle keeps the cart lifted off the ground at the right angle and makes putting your kayak on the cart much easier.
I secured my handle with a small screw and not glue if perhaps I need to break the cart down a little for saving space. And the first time you have to put the kayak on the cart without the handle you'll see how nice it is have had the cart stabilized on the ground.

What I also did is run a small cord through the end of the handle with a loop on each side 0--T--0 , and then I have two bungies, one for each side that secure across the top of the kayak and to the loops. This secures the handle and thus the cart from being jostled out of straight if you are going over rough terrain. I have channels on the bottom of my kayak.. but I didn't make the cradle custom fit for them, maybe you did and the cart will stay true. Or as Mr. Missedshed does, crank your main straps super tight. But I still like my bungies to the handle.

You're gonna love your cart !

[bgriff]

IMG-20130529-00327.jpg
I also built my cart using the directions from Palmetto. The cart works great, and I love the fact that I can break it down and store it in my front hatch. I did have to change a few of the dimensions because of the shape of my hull. I also cut slits in the middle sets of "T"'s and ran a lashing strap through that section so I never have to worry about losing my straps.

[PigPen]

I generously spray my miter blade down with dry coat spray (from Rockler) to keep PVC from sticking to the blade. Cleans up a liuttle easier.

[mweber02]

Oh, it didn't stick to the blade. It just went EVERYWHERE. Really nothing to do with the specific build, just a consequence of using a miter saw to cut PVC.

[Mbrupb]

Just finished my DIY cart, so happy to be done carrying my kayak from the back yard of my townhouse to the car and back again.

Super easy build, and the estimated price was right on the money. 1/2 the price of the one I saw at BPS.

Realistically, it probably took just as long cleaning up all the PVC mess from the miter saw as it did to prep and build it.

I think I got lucky, the PVC fit in the joints pretty tight and didn't seem to need glue, just a few smacks with a rubber mallet. I don't think the pool noodle was a "jumbo" but it still fit on snug and shouldn't need any help from a bungee or paracord to stay secure.

I definitely recommend cutting the threaded rod to a "custom" length as suggested in the plans. Mine ended needing to be a 1/2 inch longer

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...art-build.html

I made three of the palmetto carts (two for myself and one for my father who hates his $99 store bought cart) and you will want to follow the specs and use PVC glue where indicated as well as install bungies. The T's may be in snug but they will rotate under the load of fully rigged yak.

[mweber02]

The only catch for me so far with this build has been that the straps wont hold tight with where I am seating it on my kayak, they just start sliding right on the the back. My solution right now is just to flip the kayak over and run the strap through the rear scupper holes. I could probably do the same thing right side up, but this way I can leave the cart attached when I hang it upside down under my deck. I only need the cart from my back yard to the car and back, so it suits me well this way.

The verticals match up pretty closely with my scupper holes, so I may eventually convert the top supports to run smaller pvc up through the scupper holes.

[Mbrupb]

The only catch for me so far with this build has been that the straps wont hold tight with where I am seating it on my kayak, they just start sliding right on the the back. My solution right now is just to flip the kayak over and run the strap through the rear scupper holes. I could probably do the same thing right side up, but this way I can leave the cart attached when I hang it upside down under my deck. I only need the cart from my back yard to the car and back, so it suits me well this way.

The verticals match up pretty closely with my scupper holes, so I may eventually convert the top supports to run smaller pvc up through the scupper holes.

Never had any problems strapping my OK T11 and T13. Be careful with the scupper method I have seen guys pierce the scupper walls using carts that operate in that way. The scupper walls are quite thin on some yaks.

[mweber02]

Thanks for the heads up. Unless I feel that I really need to make the change I will stick with what I have. I am using it on my Ascend D10T. It's pretty short, especially on the back end, so the straps slide right on around with the taper. I suppose I could also find something useful to install that would also serve as a catch to prevent the strap from sliding back.

[NukeMD]

I must have done something terribly wrong as I made the same cart from Palmetto and glued it together (primer & glue) and it "fell apart" after 3-4 uses on even terrain. The center posts were unstable and twisted before finally coming apart. Maybe they were too high? Great idea and I really like it. Might try it again, but with lower center posts.

[rob-kayak]

@NukeMD....
Maybe you used the wrong kind of PVC glue... usually with the right glue PVC almost melts together.

@mweber02

My straps are "attached" to the cart by simply "knotting" them around the cart.
My kayak sits pretty much balanced on the cart... ie: no "tung" weight.

Also.. I have conveniently at the point where the straps cross over the top of the kayak, strap eyes.
My straps go through them. But many times I get lazy and don't pass the strap through them,
and don't have but a little slippage to the rear. But I also always use the bungies through the
handle and over the top... which probably helps keep the cart from moving around.