I learned the hard way last year that me + Kayak + Expensive Rod = Trouble. After breaking two rods last year I decided to place the expensive stuff in the corner and build a couple of cheap (If it breaks so be it) rods. I thought about going the ugly stick route but they never felt right in my hands and why buy when you can build one to your liking. So out with the titanium guides, Fine cork and IM8 blanks and in with the cheap.
BLANKS
Browsing through Mudholes blank selection I stumbled on their CRB budget blanks. The blanks are IM6, come in several actions, crazy blank color selection and they are priced right. They had two blanks that fit my build requirements so I took the plunge and purchased them.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...ummer-Specials
The CRB IS701L is a 7’ 8-12lb fast action blank. It handles 1/4 to 3/4 oz lure weights and should be a great lite jig / bottom fishing rod.
The CRB IS701M is a 7’ 14-18lb fast action blank. It handles 1 to 2 oz lure weights and should be a great heavy jig / bottom fishing / lite trolling rod
The blanks feel great. The finish is good and they are actually fairly lite. Not as lite as a High end blank but what can you expect for the price. The build quality and action look superb I think these are a winner
GUIDES
I decided to go with a Guide kit for the builds using American Tackle Halide guides. Nothing fancy just stamped black SS frames and the basic ring material. These will be heaver than the high end guides but the price was right. I don’t see the ring material being an issue with these. I have used Halide rings on other builds with braided line and have never had a problem with the line cutting into the ring material.
The kits include all needed guides minus the tip. Depending on the action I might need to add or remove a running guide but I think this should cover them.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...7-Casting-Rods
For the tips I used the same American Tackle Halide series.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...Spin-Cast-Tops
GRIPS
Again on the keeping it cheap route I am passing up the cork rings for some cheap EVA split grips. These are pre shaped and cheap. I won’t have to ream, sand and shape these grips for and hour (Time is Money). Just a little blending here and there and it should look great.
For the front and rear grip I picked up two of these.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...utt-with-Tenon
There classified as fighting butts but will work great for my needs. One in front of the reel seat and on behind. They are only 1.6” long and seeing I always palm the reel they fit perfectly in my hand.
For the butt end of the rod I picked up one of these
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...-Fighting-Butt
Again it’s EVA, pre shaped and cheap.
REEL SEAT
This is the only item I disregarded the price on. There are much cheaper seats available but there is one thing on this reel seat that popped out to me. The trigger has milled out slot and looks perfect for a new method to attach a rod leash. A loop of heavy mono or a large split ring thru there and it would make a great place to clip a leash too. Bye Bye Velcro leash straps.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...gger-Reel-Seat
With all the goodies totaled up it’s around $45.00 per rod minus the cost of epoxy, thread and rod finish. This will be much cheaper than my other builds. The last rod I broke had $60.00 invested in the guides alone.
So what is the difference between this and a cheap factory rod?
1. Its mine, I built it, No one has the same rod, etc…
2. Custom handle length. On most factory rods 7’ and longer the rear grip is a tad to long for my taste. When sitting in a Kayak a shorter rear grip allows you to move the rod from hand to hand if needed without it bumping or grabbing your vest. It can also make working lures much easier for the same reasons.
3. Better guide placement and proper spine alignment of the rod. Most cheap factory rods never spine the blank and just slap the guides on the straightest axis. I have also seen casting rods with factory guide placement allowing the line to touch and sometimes pass under the blank under load.
4. Its winter and I need something to do…
I’m going to start the builds this weekend and will post any progress and testing here.
Any interest in a step-by-step tutorial on building a rod? I could take pics during the build and slap something together for the site if you think it would be helpful.
BLANKS
Browsing through Mudholes blank selection I stumbled on their CRB budget blanks. The blanks are IM6, come in several actions, crazy blank color selection and they are priced right. They had two blanks that fit my build requirements so I took the plunge and purchased them.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...ummer-Specials
The CRB IS701L is a 7’ 8-12lb fast action blank. It handles 1/4 to 3/4 oz lure weights and should be a great lite jig / bottom fishing rod.
The CRB IS701M is a 7’ 14-18lb fast action blank. It handles 1 to 2 oz lure weights and should be a great heavy jig / bottom fishing / lite trolling rod
The blanks feel great. The finish is good and they are actually fairly lite. Not as lite as a High end blank but what can you expect for the price. The build quality and action look superb I think these are a winner
GUIDES
I decided to go with a Guide kit for the builds using American Tackle Halide guides. Nothing fancy just stamped black SS frames and the basic ring material. These will be heaver than the high end guides but the price was right. I don’t see the ring material being an issue with these. I have used Halide rings on other builds with braided line and have never had a problem with the line cutting into the ring material.
The kits include all needed guides minus the tip. Depending on the action I might need to add or remove a running guide but I think this should cover them.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...7-Casting-Rods
For the tips I used the same American Tackle Halide series.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...Spin-Cast-Tops
GRIPS
Again on the keeping it cheap route I am passing up the cork rings for some cheap EVA split grips. These are pre shaped and cheap. I won’t have to ream, sand and shape these grips for and hour (Time is Money). Just a little blending here and there and it should look great.
For the front and rear grip I picked up two of these.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...utt-with-Tenon
There classified as fighting butts but will work great for my needs. One in front of the reel seat and on behind. They are only 1.6” long and seeing I always palm the reel they fit perfectly in my hand.
For the butt end of the rod I picked up one of these
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...-Fighting-Butt
Again it’s EVA, pre shaped and cheap.
REEL SEAT
This is the only item I disregarded the price on. There are much cheaper seats available but there is one thing on this reel seat that popped out to me. The trigger has milled out slot and looks perfect for a new method to attach a rod leash. A loop of heavy mono or a large split ring thru there and it would make a great place to clip a leash too. Bye Bye Velcro leash straps.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Cata...gger-Reel-Seat
With all the goodies totaled up it’s around $45.00 per rod minus the cost of epoxy, thread and rod finish. This will be much cheaper than my other builds. The last rod I broke had $60.00 invested in the guides alone.
So what is the difference between this and a cheap factory rod?
1. Its mine, I built it, No one has the same rod, etc…
2. Custom handle length. On most factory rods 7’ and longer the rear grip is a tad to long for my taste. When sitting in a Kayak a shorter rear grip allows you to move the rod from hand to hand if needed without it bumping or grabbing your vest. It can also make working lures much easier for the same reasons.
3. Better guide placement and proper spine alignment of the rod. Most cheap factory rods never spine the blank and just slap the guides on the straightest axis. I have also seen casting rods with factory guide placement allowing the line to touch and sometimes pass under the blank under load.
4. Its winter and I need something to do…
I’m going to start the builds this weekend and will post any progress and testing here.
Any interest in a step-by-step tutorial on building a rod? I could take pics during the build and slap something together for the site if you think it would be helpful.
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