Native Mariner Seat Base

[Skidsteer]

Replaced the standard seat base with one that has room for Plano Boxes (2 - 3700 boxes).

I have yet to test it but I'm happy with how it turned out so far:

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[PigPen]

I saw some one on the native user group mentioned building something like this. How did you plan to secure the box\riser to the boat? If you used MDF you should use a super heavy varnish or polyurethane to try and seal it. I'm thinking about building a teak or red wood version but probably use lexan to fit under the tabs.

[PigPen]

Just saw it was you on the other forum.

[J.A. Veil]

Nice work on adding functionality. I hope it does not affect your center of gravity much.

[PigPen]

The mariners are so stable I would be surprised if it felt any different. Other forums say it makes it easier to stand up. I think it will help with the hip position that they fixed with the slayer propel.

[Skidsteer]

Nice work on adding functionality. I hope it does not affect your center of gravity much.

I used to sit on a PFD pad placed on the seat to raise it up a bit. Should be pretty similar to that, and that has not been a problem ... so far ;-)

- How did you plan to secure the box\riser to the boat?

The seat adjustment straps seem to hold it well. But when testing if I think it needs to be held down more I'll add a strap across the box but below the seat to strap it directly to the hull. An extra one of the side seat adjustment straps should work perfectly for the task.

- If you used MDF ...

It is made from exterior trim board - a composite material that needs no painting or sealing. I had some scraps laying around so that's what I used. If I had to buy material I might use a PVC trim board and add PVC glue to the connections once I had the design finalized. Not so pretty, but functional and care free.

Thanks for the comments ... I'll look forward to seeing yours when you get it done!

We should have a "Native" fishing trip this spring/summer to compare notes/boats ...

[PigPen]

How did you decide on the angle? Have you tried the design out on water yet? I'm still torn on the materiel but when I get time after Christmas to rig up my fishfinder I should get a clearer picture. You might catch me in Annapolis drag racing sea kayak snobs to see who's muscles can propel a boat faster.

[Skidsteer]

How did you decide on the angle? Have you tried the design out on water yet?

The angle is just based on the height needed to get the plano boxes in from the front while keeping the back as low as possible. Probably could go lower in the back but the boxes just barely slide in from the front given the propel hole and cover. If you're short (i.e. your seat is closer to the propel) you may need to go higher in front. I think the dimensions of the side pieces are 4" front 2-1/2" back and 18-1/2" long. I'd have to check to be sure but those may be a good place for you to start.

I have not had it on the water yet. I hope to try it on a nice warm day soon.

[PigPen]

Skidsteer,

here's my attempt to get a high and low position in the mariner. I posted in the native member forum as well. Can't wait to try this out on the water.

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[Skidsteer]

That's awesome - great idea. Love the tracks front to back so the seat base can still be used - much simpler than mine and still tilt-adjustable.

Word of caution - some of the slayer owners have been reporting roll-overs and some think it's due to the seat not being held tightly in place.

In the low position, the current seat straps should work fine. Maybe a second set of straps for the high position so you can change quickly and easily on the water (?).

Let me know what you come up with.

Thanks for posting.

[PigPen]

thanks,

I have some wooden parts that aren't quite finished yet that will hold the seat to the rails and so far the straps appear to be long enough becuase I'm short. But I could see if enough force was applied during peddling that the seat could fly back as the base shot forward. Where would one go to get exra straps? I saw the jacksons come with a tightening strap in the front at least to keep the chair from flying back. Thanks for the warning. I also did some DIY plug n play rod holders that are just curing using 5/8 x 1" oak with round overs to accomidate the pyramid shape. Seems snug enough for just trolling.

[Skidsteer]

I think you can get generic straps and buckles at fabric/craft stores like Michael's and/or Joanne's.

If you wanted a second set of Native straps you could try Get Outdoors from the banner on the Native Owner's Group site.

Maybe you could strap the base to the kayak and the seat to the base. Then you would only need dual buckles - one set at the low height setting and one set at the high setting (?). If you kept the buckles an equal distance from the seat posts you wouldn't need to do any adjustments to switch - unbuckle, move from low/high, rebuckle - and you're rolling again.

Hope this helps.

[PigPen]

I guess I could check this on my own but my yak is up in the garage rafters right now. Do you know if the screws holding the straps to the yak are using molded in nuts? I was trying to avoid any permanent drillings for a prototype. Still gun shy about where to run my FF cables. I was also surprised how much force the plug n play bars can take before the rivets stretch. I got caught on a tie down strap while unloading once.