Electrical help needed

[Runnin]

Any electrical experts here? I have collected all of the supplies I need to wire up my yak.

I'm installing a fish finder, and some waterproof LED tapes.

I want to install a switch for the LED's. Should I run two series circuits separately ( one for FF and one for lights), or one parallel circuit with the switch controlling the LED's only. How exactly do I do the parallel wiring? Where in the circuit does the switch go? I also have an in-line fuse in a waterproof holder . Where should that be added. I'm thinking the fuse goes off the main + lead first in line after battery.

Thanks for any help you can provide. I'd rather figure this out before I start wiring and drilling holes.

[bruce19365]

It's not the cheapest way, but it does make it easy to maintain and centralize all your wiring. Use a switch panel - available at BPS, Cabela's, West Marine, etc. - they come with multiple circuits, and optional USB or cigarette style receptacle to plug in a charger for a cell phone.
This one as an example comes from BPS.

You run a pair of wires from the battery to the panel, using the in-line fuse holder in the positive line with a 15a - 20a fuse (depending on your load) and this is your "main fuse" and eliminate the rat's nest of wires at your battery. You run a pair of wires from the panel to each accessory and the panel contains a fuse (circuit fuse) and switch for each. With the fuse panel you do not need an inline fuse between the panel and the accessory (it's self contained in the panel) which eliminates all the little inline fuse holders and keeping them easily accessible if one blows. You should never run a feed directly from the battery to an accessory without fused protection. There are a variety of panel choices offering a number of circuits, tube (glass) fuses or the more popular automotive type fuse.

Another option would be to install a marine fuse panel and separate set of switches but you can mount the fuse panel inside the hull near the battery and the switch panel will take up less space in the cockpit. It's also a bit more difficult to replace a fuse if one blows on the water, but I've not experienced a blown fuse yet. Wiring is similiar running two wires from the battery (with inline main fuse) to fuse panel, polarity feeds from fuse panel to switch then on to the accessory and ground wire direct to accessory.

The most economical option (IMO the least attractive) is to use the inline fuse holder. All connections will be at the battery (using color coded polarity wires will identify which accessory the wire feeds) The polarity wire with fuse holder will go to your switch then on to the accessory and the ground wire directly from the battery to the accessory.

In your specific situation - you could bare bones it with a feed (dedicated) to the SONAR without a switch, as it has a power button, with an inline fuse on the polarity (hot wire). The light(s) should be on it's own feed with another inline fuse holder in the polarity wire running to the switch (only the polarity wire is attached to the switch) then on to the light(s). You can use a common ground wire or run individual ground wires back to the negative battery terminal from each accessory.

[buzz]

Any electrical experts here? I have collected all of the supplies I need to wire up my yak.

I'm installing a fish finder, and some waterproof LED tapes.

I want to install a switch for the LED's. Should I run two series circuits separately ( one for FF and one for lights), or one parallel circuit with the switch controlling the LED's only. How exactly do I do the parallel wiring? Where in the circuit does the switch go? I also have an in-line fuse in a waterproof holder . Where should that be added. I'm thinking the fuse goes off the main + lead first in line after battery.

Thanks for any help you can provide. I'd rather figure this out before I start wiring and drilling holes.

Parallel is the way to go. A series circuit would have one line leaving the power source that will send power to one device then pass it on to the second device.

series-circuit.jpg

A parallel circuit would have 2 lines leaving the power source. One to the fishfinder and a second to the switch that feeds the LEDs. Its much cleaner and easier to diagnose problems with this type of circuit. It also can easily accept a switch panel like bruce19365 mentioned.

parallel-circuit.jpg

[archeryrob]

You're going to have to cut a HUGE hole in the kayak to mount that panel Bruce suggested. Its a nice panel, but I don't think I would use it on a kayak.

A series circuit is the same as one device in parallel. It changes for two devices and more. wire two devices for 12v in series on a 12 battery and they become a voltage divider and you get 6v on each devices, as long as they have the same resistance. Mean they could not work if not rated down to 6v.

Use a fuse on the red then to the switch(s) and then the black and red to each device. Separate reds to different devices and can use the same black to all of them.

[bruce19365]

You're going to have to cut a HUGE hole in the kayak to mount that panel Bruce suggested. Its a nice panel, but I don't think I would use it on a kayak.

Size is relative. It also depends on the size of the kayak and the number of accessories and circuits required. There are several options (which I included), some which are more appropriate to larger kayaks. In my PA a panel is not such a big item and the number of circuits may be several, where smaller yaks may require much less. You could have circuits for lights, SONAR, live well pump, USB and/or cigarette plug (charging phone, marine radio, Kindle, or notebook when fishing is slow ), radio/CD player (ok that may be a bit much but I am thinking about that one). Your needs will dictate how you'll need to wire up.

[Runnin]

Parallel is the way to go. A series circuit would have one line leaving the power source that will send power to one device then pass it on to the second device.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]10989[/ATTACH]

A parallel circuit would have 2 lines leaving the power source. One to the fishfinder and a second to the switch that feeds the LEDs. Its much cleaner and easier to diagnose problems with this type of circuit. It also can easily accept a switch panel like bruce19365 mentioned.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]10990[/ATTACH]

Thanks for the drawing. Looks pretty simple. Fuse goes on + red lead before switch to LED correct? Can I just have one lead off the battery and then splice in a line to the FF.

[Runnin]

Size is relative. It also depends on the size of the kayak and the number of accessories and circuits required. There are several options (which I included), some which are more appropriate to larger kayaks. In my PA a panel is not such a big item and the number of circuits may be several, where smaller yaks may require much less. You could have circuits for lights, SONAR, live well pump, USB and/or cigarette plug (charging phone, marine radio, Kindle, or notebook when fishing is slow ), radio/CD player (ok that may be a bit much but I am thinking about that one). Your needs will dictate how you'll need to wire up.

Do have a small nuclear reactor to power all that stuff? I don't think my little Cabelas 7.2 amp battery could handle that much. It would be cool though

[buzz]

Thanks for the drawing. Looks pretty simple. Fuse goes on + red lead before switch to LED correct? Can I just have one lead off the battery and then splice in a line to the FF.

Yes.
And of course I don't have to tell you to solder your connections and seal them good. I like to coat them generously with liquid electrical tape 2 or 3 times to build up a nice thick layer.

[HearadonCatch]

Runnin, I build/repair DC power circuits all the time (profession). I don't think you live too far from me. If you want, we can hook up and I can go through some options for you. Message me if your interested.

[bruce19365]

Do have a small nuclear reactor to power all that stuff? I don't think my little Cabelas 7.2 amp battery could handle that much. It would be cool though

Actually I needed a much larger battery than the small Cabelas batteries as my SONAR (898cSI) alone would not operate more than 4 or 5 hours continuously using them. I played around with couple other batteries before I stopped fooling around and bought a battery to match my requirements. I have an 18 amp hour motorcycle battery and I have plenty of power now for the SONAR/GPS, lights, etc. while not having the weight and size of a full size deep cycle battery. Now if I get too old to pedal the Mirage Drive and need a trolling motor, then a full size battery will be needed.

[Runnin]

Runnin, I build/repair DC power circuits all the time (profession). I don't think you live too far from me. If you want, we can hook up and I can go through some options for you. Message me if your interested.

Wow! Great offer. I may take you up on that. I would really like to finish this before the March M&G. I don't when I'm going to fit it into the family schedule though.

[Runnin]

My little Battery should be enough. I only have a Elite 4.

[archeryrob]

.....You could have circuits for lights, SONAR, live well pump, USB and/or cigarette plug (charging phone, marine radio, Kindle, or notebook when fishing is slow ), radio/CD player .....

Damn, starting to sound like some of these hunting guys "getting in touch" with nature in their insulated tree houses with a generator, satellite TV, and heater. Don't tell me you've got cellular on the notebook and streaming Netflix on the water? LOL