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My Humminbird Install
In the beginning my goal was to put the fewest amount of holes in my Torque as possible. However, after a very successful install of a Scotty flush mount, I felt confident enough that I could drill, mount, and seal just about anything here. Its really no big deal... these boats are made well.
First thing was to position the transducer. Just like the scupper indentation, the transducer has one end wider than the other. Common sense says to position the scupper with the wide end of the scupper facing the wide of the scupper hole. But when I did this the transducer protruded more than when I turned it 180 degrees. So that's the way I tightened it down... with the narrow end of the 'ducer facing the wide end of the scupper hole.
1-PICT0553-800x600.JPG
I you look beneath the transducer nut you can see I made a washer for it and notched the washer to line up with the scupper's drain groove. This is to make sure the scupper still functions properly. Then after debating my options on a pass-through, I decided to go with the Cable Clam.
2-PICT0563-800x600.jpg
I wasn't happy with the way the Cable Clam mounted using wood screws and I didn't want to tighten nuts directly against the hull. So I made a backing plate for it which allowed me to sandwich the hull instead.
3-PICT0556-800x600.jpg
Inside the hull I coiled up the cable and zip tied it to a pad eye that I attached to the mounting screws for another I had placed on the deck.
4-PICT0560-800x600.jpg
I tucked the battery into a dry bag and snugged it up against the trolling battery compartment. The green bungee has very little tension on it so as not to put any strain on the scupper holes. The battery is fused, and I will soon be adding a waterproof connector and switch.
5-PICT0567-800x600.jpg
Finally, back above deck, I routed the wire to the cutting board on which I mounted the FF. The main reason for this is put the FF within comfortable arm's reach. I would have like to have mounted it directly to the battery box cover but the cover is too thin to hold anything securely.
6-PICT0557-800x600.jpg
First thing was to position the transducer. Just like the scupper indentation, the transducer has one end wider than the other. Common sense says to position the scupper with the wide end of the scupper facing the wide of the scupper hole. But when I did this the transducer protruded more than when I turned it 180 degrees. So that's the way I tightened it down... with the narrow end of the 'ducer facing the wide end of the scupper hole.
1-PICT0553-800x600.JPG
I you look beneath the transducer nut you can see I made a washer for it and notched the washer to line up with the scupper's drain groove. This is to make sure the scupper still functions properly. Then after debating my options on a pass-through, I decided to go with the Cable Clam.
2-PICT0563-800x600.jpg
I wasn't happy with the way the Cable Clam mounted using wood screws and I didn't want to tighten nuts directly against the hull. So I made a backing plate for it which allowed me to sandwich the hull instead.
3-PICT0556-800x600.jpg
Inside the hull I coiled up the cable and zip tied it to a pad eye that I attached to the mounting screws for another I had placed on the deck.
4-PICT0560-800x600.jpg
I tucked the battery into a dry bag and snugged it up against the trolling battery compartment. The green bungee has very little tension on it so as not to put any strain on the scupper holes. The battery is fused, and I will soon be adding a waterproof connector and switch.
5-PICT0567-800x600.jpg
Finally, back above deck, I routed the wire to the cutting board on which I mounted the FF. The main reason for this is put the FF within comfortable arm's reach. I would have like to have mounted it directly to the battery box cover but the cover is too thin to hold anything securely.
6-PICT0557-800x600.jpg
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