Fish Finder on Native Slayer 10

[J. Rentch]

I just took possession of my new Native Slayer 10, I have a few questions regarding rigging a FF. 1) where should I place the FF? The two short tracks in front of the drive system seem to be too close to the foot pedals to use. So I am thinking the side tracks.

2) I plan to put my power source in the forward hatch, but am no sure how to run the connecting wires from the battery and the transducer out to the FF. Any suggestions on this?

[J.A. Veil]

John -

Congratulations on getting your new SP 10. I have a new FF/GPS to install on mine, but have not done it yet. I can't recall if I sent you a copy of the FF/GPS installation guide I made last winter for my SP 13. If not, please send me your email address.

I plan to follow pretty much the same procedure for the SP 10. I will mount the screen unit on the left hand crosswise gear track. I will mount the transducer inside the hull using Duct Seal putty. I will put the battery in a plastic box that sits underneath the front hatch. The power leads will remain inside the hull space, but the two cables that lead to the screen unit (one for power and one for transducer) will exit the front hatch through the rear edge of the rubber hatch cover. I will run them through black corrugated tubing to keep them from getting bumped, scratched, or caught by a hook. I used that set up for my Manta Ray 14 (see photo). On that kayak, I had space for the battery box in front of the foot rest. The SP 10 cannot handle a battery there -- it would bump your foot when pedaling.

large battery 006.jpg.

It worked fine with no water leakage to the hull.

[mweber02]

John -

Congratulations on getting your new SP 10. I have a new FF/GPS to install on mine, but have not done it yet. I can't recall if I sent you a copy of the FF/GPS installation guide I made last winter for my SP 13. If not, please send me your email address.

I plan to follow pretty much the same procedure for the SP 10. I will mount the screen unit on the left hand crosswise gear track. I will mount the transducer inside the hull using Duct Seal putty. I will put the battery in a plastic box that sits underneath the front hatch. The power leads will remain inside the hull space, but the two cables that lead to the screen unit (one for power and one for transducer) will exit the front hatch through the rear edge of the rubber hatch cover. I will run them through black corrugated tubing to keep them from getting bumped, scratched, or caught by a hook. I used that set up for my Manta Ray 14 (see photo). On that kayak, I had space for the battery box in front of the foot rest. The SP 10 cannot handle a battery there -- it would bump your foot when pedaling.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]14673[/ATTACH].

It worked fine with no water leakage to the hull.

I love the potato salad battery box!

[J. Rentch]

John, I would appreciate the installation guide for my FF. My email is: john.rentch@gmail.com. Your description sounds like what I was thinking. Appreciate your help.

John

[J.A. Veil]

I love the potato salad battery box!

That worked great for my 7-amp-hr battery. When I upgraded to a 12 amp-hr battery, I had to bite the bullet and spend $8 for a locking food storage box from Bed, Bath & Beyond.

002.jpg 005.jpg 006.jpg

[Pc4sun]

J.
For my Slayer Propel 13 I did this:

12 v. Battery - I bought a water tight box from Walmart for $10, drilled a hole for the wires, and put my battery in there. I sealed the hole with plumbers putty. I put the battery box in the front hatch with the wires running out from under the hatch cover to the transducer and fish finder, which I slid in the left railing.
Transducer: I put in the left foot area scupper hole. Using two inch PVC, I cut a three inch piece and drilled two holes near one end. I put the transducer in the PVC with one long screw going through the drilled holes to hold the transducer in there. I did have to notch a piece off the PVC do accommodate the slant of the transducer. If you want I can take a picture and send it to you. I like John's idea of using corrugated tubing to protect the wires.
No problems for the year I've been using it this way.

[J. Rentch]

Peggy,
Yes, if you could post a picture, that would be great. My only concern , does the wiring from the transducer get in the way of your feet when not peddling? I think I am going to mount it inside, but would like to have a backup plan, if I am not satisfied.
Thanks for the reply.

John

[BeyondTheBounds]

I made a video about the thru hull wiring kit for my transducer and battery bag on my slayer 13. With a new boat I can understand not wanting to drill, but I love not having to deal with the cords. The seal is very good with the hobie thru hull. I've even seen a west marine wiring kit. I have two 12 volt lead batteries, one for the camera and the other for the fish finder. I don't like the lowrance scupper mount, as it doesn't fit very well. I will be replacing with transducer arm soon.

Video below.

http://youtu.be/pN-y2SWA9_c


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[BeyondTheBounds]

Grommets work really well too for those plastic containers. Here is my most recent crate I made from a marshalls cooler with a grommet for my camera power cord.
Just some ideas for a fellow slayer!




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[Pc4sun]

Peggy,
Yes, if you could post a picture, that would be great. My only concern , does the wiring from the transducer get in the way of your feet when not peddling? I think I am going to mount it inside, but would like to have a backup plan, if I am not satisfied.
Thanks for the reply.

John

John,
The wiring has never been in the way; it tucks close to the side and in between the groves, though I think I will follow John V's idea of the corrugated tubing to protect the wires. I'll take pictures this weekend of my solution and post them.

[J.A. Veil]

For me the toughest part of the installation is figuring out exactly how and where I want to put all the components. I tend to experiment, think about it, and experiment some more before starting. Then I purchase the supplies/parts needed to make the installation work. After all that, the installation usually is straightforward.

In preparation for installing a FF/GPS on my Slayer Propel 10, I spent some time yesterday looking inside the front hatch to see the shape of the floor inside the hull to make sure I was comfortable with the location for the transducer and for the battery box. The SP 10 has a shorter front section than the SP 13 -- the contours of the floor inside the hull are more sharply angled because it is well into the bow area. I think I have a creative solution -- I bought a second plastic box (~$4) at Home Depot. I will use a brick or two of Duct Seal ($2.98/brick) to fill the sharp V of the bow area and make a flat bed. I will embed the new plastic box in the Duct Seal to give a semi-permanent container.

I can then place my existing battery box inside the embedded box to hold it in place (I can easily remove the battery box for charging). There is a smaller flat space about a foot farther back. That is where I plan to install the transducer using a Duct Seal dry installation. All my power wires will be inside the hull. The only two wires coming out of the rubber hatch cover are the two cables going to the screen unit (one for the transducer and one for the power line). They will exit the hatch cover on the side away from the bow leaving only a small gap, which should minimize any water ingress to the hull space, even in rough water.

Note: I have heard some folks complain about the durability and holding capability of Duct Seal. Last Sat I sold my Manta Ray 14 kayak. I had installed a transducer in that boat about two years ago using the Duct Seal method. The buyer for my kayak did not want the FF/GPS, so I removed the transducer. The puck of Duct Seal that I had installed two years earlier still had a very firm grip with the plastic inside hull of the Manta Ray 14, and was holding tightly to the transducer. It took 30-60 seconds of pushing and prying with my finger tips to get the transducer loose from the floor and the Duct Seal loose from the transducer. It all came off in one grey mass that had many salt crystals on the surface. But there was no question that the adhesion of the Duct Seal was still very strong. I usually wipe the floor area with rubbing alcohol and rough it up slightly with sandpaper before pushing the Duct Seal into position -- that removes any residual mold release oils and helps to give better adhesion.

[silasvirus82]

for a battery box I like the fairly cheap Plano ammo boxes with a gasket seal. You can put most any kind of battery in them, I use a motorcycle battery, and they are water tight. On mine I have two water tight deck connectors each setup for different voltage. One side I use in my kayak for my ff, the other I use for running an aerator when I'm fishing from the beach. They have a nice handle to carry around, and extra room inside for safety stuff which is handy fishing in either situation.

+1 on the use of grommets too, even if you capsize minimal water will flow through, and if you really wanted to you can dab a little silicone around them for a sure seal.

[J. Rentch]

Thanks, look forward to it. I am going to the Lake Shore flea market Sat. John Vail has a table there, so I want to talk with him on his idea foe his FF mount and connections

John