Clean my hobie

[kdkilbo]

What's the best way to clean my hobie.water n soap or what else

[Cowpokey]

I just use a hose and rag. Soap wouldn't hurt though.

[JohnE]

I just hose mine off and use spray silicone on gaskets and moving parts. I usually carry a pump sprayer with me to clean the mirage drive (and my reels). Some mild soap is fine I'm sure, just don't use any solvents or harsh chemicals.

[Mark]

Simple Green and a medium to soft brush is good for tough stains -- especially the dark ring in the mirage drive opening due to my use of WD40 on the drive.

I've also used dish detergent diluted in a bucket of water and Zip Car Wash.

[kdkilbo]

What kinda grease lube or whatever can I use for my mirage drive

[Mark]

What kinda grease lube or whatever can I use for my mirage drive

I've used dry silicon lubricants but I like WD-40 the best.

I rinse the drive after every use with fresh water. Then I blow it dry with an air compressor to get all the water out of it. Next I saturate the chains, main axel and moving parts with WD-40 and hang the drive up in my garage to dry. I squirt it down again with WD-40 just before departing on an outing and I carry a small can of WD-40 with me on the water. The performance of the drive is noticeably smoother and quieter when well lubricated.

[JohnE]

Silicone spray is a lubricant and is ok to use on plastic. I use it, but feel like it is more important to keep the mirage drive clean. The silicone spray helps in the cleaning process, but I don't think the lubrication last very long at all. It is ok to use anywhere on the hobie, from mirage drive to hatch gaskets.

I have heard of break free clp being used on the mirage drive. I would try this product myself, but never have yet.

I personally would not use wd40, though I have heard of it recommended for mirage drive maintenance before and to each their own. WD does stand for water displacing, which would be a good thing. However, it is not really a lubricant, it is essentially a solvent. Solvents are bad for plastic. I would also never use wd40 on something like a bicycle chain...there is a chain on my mirage drive, so one more reason I will not use it. It also leaves behind sticky gunk which could possibly build up over time in places where you don't want it. Try spraying wd-40 on something like an old clock and see what happens over time (really don't try this, I know somebody who did just that to some nice grandfather clocks and it was very costly to have a clock repairman clean out the gunk left behind from wd40 and get them running smoothly again).

[hookmeup]

I've been sparingly applying break free on the metal parts my mirage drive after thorough rinsing with fresh water and air drying. Silicone lubricant on the plastic parts after every few trips. It looks new except for the scratches from rocks/beach.

Any solvent is going to dissolve the sealing grease so it's probably not a great idea to use solvents (including break free and WD-40) with abandon. I try to apply only to the exposed areas that might get gunky. There is none. Not sure about what will work best on the upgraded drives with bearings (mirage or propel). A full break down of the drive with regreasing is probably a good idea for either.

[Mark]

Two and half years and over 400 miles mostly in salt or brackish water relying mainly on WD-40 as a lubricant.

I'm pleased with my drive's condition.

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There are many products that will work. What's important is regular and frequent attention to the drive to keep it lubricated and clean.

[Cowpokey]

I've used dry silicon lubricants but I like WD-40 the best.

I rinse the drive after every use with fresh water. Then I blow it dry with an air compressor to get all the water out of it. Next I saturate the chains, main axel and moving parts with WD-40 and hang the drive up in my garage to dry. I squirt it down again with WD-40 just before departing on an outing and I carry a small can of WD-40 with me on the water. The performance of the drive is noticeably smoother and quieter when well lubricated.

I would advise against that. Using compressed air will blow lubricant out of places you aren't going to sufficiently get it back in without taking it apart to put the lubricant back.

I haven't used any lubricant on my drive or rudder; just rinse it off with a hose, shake it around and move it in its normal range of motion, then put it away to dry.

[Mark]

I would advise against that. Using compressed air will blow lubricant out of places you aren't going to sufficiently get it back in without taking it apart to put the lubricant back.

I use the same technique with my reels also -- freshwater rinse with hose after a saltwater trip and compressed air to get the excess water out. This technique has provided excellent longevity and performance for my equipment. Some of my reels may be older than a few Snaggedline members.

I think we each have to find what works for us and stick with it if successful. I would not recommend something that has been harmed my gear. Likewise I would say so if it did.

[Cowpokey]

Do what works for you. I've got 40+ trips to the salt on my gear over the last year, and it's performing well...so I'm going to stick with what I've been doing until I find a flaw.

[JohnE]

I was also going add that you should only use low pressure from the hose when cleaning mirage drive. Never use a high pressure nozzle or a pressure washer. I have the same opinion as Cowpokey on using compressed air for the same reason I would stay away from rinsing with high pressure water.

Going back to wd40. The solvent over time may weaken plastic components. But the film left behind may collect sand and other bad stuff. With repeated use, the film will turn likely turn into a thicker substance with sand and grit mixed in. Might not be as bad if you only fish freshwater. But in the salt, I would say it is likely a recipe for decreased mirage drive life before rebuild.

I changed my mind on the break free after thinking about it more. I would not use it. I just remembered way back using it on something with plastic/composite parts still attached and the plastic completely discolored, so it could not be good for plastic. It is good for metal and won't leave behind a film like wd40. Maybe if used very sparingly only on metal parts.

I will stick with just keeping my mirage drive clean and spraying it with silicone until I find something that can lubricate and protect better while not risking damage.

[Goody]

I always rinse of the kayak after each trip with the hose and occasionally wash it down with a car wash mix when there's stuff on it. I put some protect all on the top part of the kayak to help protect it from fading. So far it looks good and makes it easier to clean off. On the mirage drive I've been rinsing it with the hose also. Occasionally I put some Brake free CLP on the chains only. I've been reading about another product (Boeshield T-9, made for bicycle chains)that I'll probably try this summer and see how it does. Yes, I tried the WD40, silicon and silicon graphite. In my opinion those aren't worth it and don't hold up.