Recommendation for Bottom Fishing Rod

[Seasalt]

Disclaimer: This thread is based on one's preference and one's budget. So, there is no right or wrong answer. At the end of the day, being out on the water means #winning.

Looking for your advice on a bottom fishing rod. I did my initial research by searching through this forum, good information.

Assumptions:
- For now, I only fish spinning. It's what I'm comfortable with.
- Rod that I can bottom fish using 2 to 6 ounces sinkers
- Rod that has some backbone for hard fighting fish like sheepshead and togs
- Rod with sensitivity to detect light bites (sheepshead)
- Rod length below 7', ideally 6' 6"
- Rod with good components that will not corrode with higher salinity water
- Cost - 0 to 200 dollars. If the rod is over 100 dollars, it needs to have decent warranty
- Bonus: Ability to jig with the rod

Following rods were identified as potential candidates.
1. Shimano Travela S - $179
http://www.tackledirect.com/shimano-...ning-rods.html
2. Shimano Travela - $129
http://www.tackledirect.com/shimano-...ning-rods.html
3. Bass Pro Muskie - $39, this is a casting rod, I'm assuming I won't be casting, I should be OK.
http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shop...oduct/2232466/
4. St. Croix - Premiere Musky - $169, this is a casting rod, I'm assuming I won't be casting, I should be OK.
http://www.basspro.com/St-Croix-Prem...product/77738/
5. St. Croix - Mojo Spinning Jig - $200
http://www.tackledirect.com/st-croix-mojo-jig-rods.html
6. Ugly Stick Big Water - $59
http://www.basspro.com/Ugly-Stik-Big...roduct/178497/

[silasvirus82]

Of those I have none, but since you're looking at St Croix you might consider the Tidemaster series. They are designed for brackish/salt water and I really enjoy mine.

[J.A. Veil]

I rarely bottom fish (by this I am referring to dropping bait to the bottom using some type of bottom rig; light tackle jigging on the bottom is a different technique that I do using spinning tackle) these days, so I cannot tell you what I think is the "best" rod for your planned use. I'm sure you will get a range of opinions about what is the "best" rod. When looking for new rods, reels, or tackle (or just about anything else I shop for) I typically prefer to have a search range and look for the "best bang for the buck" rod or reel or any other tackle. You might think that rod A is the best fit for your use, but it costs $150. You may find rod B on sale for $75 that comes very close to the performance of rod A. Or you may find rod C, with extremely high quality, that is on sale for $200. If I am the shopper in that scenario, I typically look at rod B or rod C, because I am getting more value for my money in either case. As a senior fisherman who has gone through several generations of rods and reels during the past 30 years of fishing, I now avoid buying low end rods and reels and spend the extra money on higher quality gear -- but I make sure I am getting a value-laden deal when I buy the expensive tackle. I have the expendable income to afford it, the better gear tends to last longer, and it makes for a lighter or smoother performance.

Another consideration is new vs. used. For example, I sold two used G. Loomis rods this week. Normal retail is >$250. Because I did not need those rods, I wanted to move them out of my rod collection and priced them at $125. In this case, the rods were in nearly-new condition. They buyers got a good deal on rods that had a higher value to them than what they paid. Used rods in very good to moderate condition and with a range of starting quality are often listed on Snaggedline.

As noted above, I rarely bottom fish, and when I do bottom fish, I use the same medium spinning rigs that I use for other styles of fishing and typically no more than 2 oz of weight. But my experience is that if you plan to use more than 2-3 oz of weight, you are better off using a revolving spool reel on a stout rod. Winding a heavy bottom rig up and down many times, especially if you are working in deep water, is not the best fit for a spinning rod and reel. Whether you buy an expensive Avet reel or a more moderate Penn combo, you have better control of your rig with the revolving spool reel.

If you plan to bottom fish near structure (e.g., jettys, pilings, wrecks, etc), you may want to stay away from expensive rods that can get scratched and beat up by bumping against the structure -- especially when fishing in a kayak that is subject to movement by waves.

I will finish by noting my opinion that there is no "right" or "wrong" or "best" rod out there. Your budget and preferences will help you choose something that should catch fish.

[hookmeup]

I bottom kayak fish a lot mainly for fluke but also the occasional weakfish. For bucktail jigging use a Daiwa aird coastal baitcaster spoiled with 10# fireline on an old bass crankbait rod from bass pro. My other set up is a cheap freshwater spinning reel spoiled with 6# mono on a yard sale medium power spinning rod for slip bobber fishing.

These can handle just about anything (including 3 1/2 foot brown sharks, but not cownose rays or butterfly rays).

I have quality rods for striper jigging. Stradic FJ 3000 on a 7' MH tidemaster and a Stradic CI4 FA 3000 on a avid inshore MHF modified tip (LOL). And a spheros fb 4000 on a premier 7' HF2 for throwing largre topwater plugs.

For deeper inshore fluke (60-100+ feet), I'm all conventional. Daiwa HD 300 XSL on a shimano teramar 7' MH and an Avet SX 5.3 on a Tsunami 7'. I forget what the rod specs are but it can handle 14 oz. I agree with John about the value of a conventional in deep water.

[Seasalt]

Thanks John for the feedback. I have come to realize your general approach might be mine as well - buy best quality for lowest price possible.

I won't be fishing very deep, mostly fishing near structure (Kipo, CBBT, Cape Henlopen) for sheepshead and togs. I'm thinking I don't really need a casting reel since I will not be fishing in deep water.

[Seasalt]

I botttom fish a lot mainly for fluke but also the occasional weakfish. For bucktail jigging use a Daiwa aird coastal baitcaster spoiled with 10# fireline on an old bass crankbait rod from bass pro. My other set up is a cheap freshwater spinning reel spoiled with 6# mono on a yard sale medium power spinning rod for slip bobber fishing.

These can handle just about anything (including 3 1/2 foot brown sharks).

I have the quality rods for striper jigging. Stradic 3000 on a 7' MH tidemaster and a Stradic CI4 3000 on a avid inshore MHF modified tip (LOL). And a spheros fb 4000 on a premier 7' HF2 for throwing largre topwater plugs.

For inshore fluke, I'm all conventional. Daiwa HD 300 XSL on a shimano teramar 7' MH and an Avet SX 5.3 on a Tsunami 7'. I forget what the rod specs are but it can handle 14 oz.

Cool. I just got a Stradic CI4 4000 from Tackle Warehouse for clearance price. I'm looking for a rod for it. I have bunch of St. Croix rods (avid, premiere, legend) but they are all over 8 feet and intended for shore or pier fishing. I like their rods though, it lasts.

[yakscientist]

I might get bashed for this, but I like the previous generation 6'6 Ugly Stik Bigwater spinning rods. I have one matched with an okuma abf-50(5000 size) baitfeeder spinning reel, perfect for bottom fishing. That was the combo that pulled in my PB kayak fish, a 40" blue catfish that I made a thread about earlier this year. I couldn't ask for a better bottom fishing rod within my budget (total for that setup is maybe 100-110$). I think the reel I've got isn't meant for jigging (too big/heavy), but I bet a 3000 or 4000 on the same rod would be fine for jigging heavier stuff. Not sure about it's sensitivity, but I felt all the tiniest nibbles from very finicky catfish, the smallest being about 16". Primarily I plan to use my normal, previous generation ugly stik (non-bigwater) or my ugly stik elite for jigging, both aren't nearly as beefy as the bigwater, so I imagine they'll be better for jigging smaller tackle, and bottom fishing with less than 2 ounces of weight ( maybe 1 oz max with the elite). Check ebay for the previous gen ugly stik bigwaters and regular ugly stiks, I have no experience with the newer ones, and I like the older color schemes better, so I just get the older ones. They also sell them at local fishing fleamarkets, ugly stiks last forever so you can usually find ones in decent shape for 1/2-1/4 price of a new one.

[Seasalt]

I might get bashed for this, but I like the previous generation 6'6 Ugly Stik Bigwater spinning rods.

Thanks for the reference. I don't think there is a right or wrong answer. You caught your personal best on it so there you go! I had couple ugly sticks and although they will probably outlast me, I find the tips too "loose". I haven't fished the Bigwater model but I'll have to take a look at Cabelas.

I have added to the list. Sounds promising.

[sega]

Ugly Stik all day.


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[ronaultmtd]

Depends on what you are looking for- fiberglass blanks are tough as nails- rarely ever fail...but they have the sensitivity of a broomstick- better hope the fish hook themselves or takes off on a dead run...I would not recommend for tog fishing or any known "nibbler" bait stealers...SGlass blanks are a compromise and a hybrid of fiberglas and carbon- Capt. Blair Wiggins Flats Blues rods by Wright and McGill sold at Dick's Sporting Goods nation-wide retail at $99...Tiger Lite by Ugly Stick is supposed to be similiar to SGlass...better than fiberglass but not nearly as sensitive as high modulus core wrapped carbon blanks but by the same token more affordable...everything is a compromise- no such thing as a perfect rod...I am firmly in the John Veil camp- I choose to spend more to get more...top of the line equipment when you have a fish of a lifetime on is priceless...I favor St. Croix and Shimano brand rods, although I have other high end rods...I have a really nice 7' Castaway medium action spinning rod that is one of my favorite for tossing 1/4 oz jigs and 3-4 inch swimbaits- like John I rarely bottom fish except for Blue Catfish in the spring for filling my freezer with boneless, skinless filets- I use low profile Abu Revo Toro NaCl 50 Winch and Lews Speed Spool reels with 30# braid on St. Croix Avid 6'6" medium heavy rod and a 7' heavy St. Croix Avid rod...and they are just fine at that task- I use the same two low profile outfits for spring trophy season trolling for the bigger striped bass- but it all depends on your budget, and what your tolerance level is...what level of compromise you are willing to say...that's not perfect, but it's good enough...

[Redfish12]

I don't know anyone that has bought, tried, and sold as much gear as me. Pinch maybe but he breaks most stuff and then throws it away in spectacular fashion, *cough* custom fly rod *cough* custom shore tackle ltj rod....

I have a shimano trevala s and I have had numerous trevalas of different weights, lengths, and casting orientation and they are all great! The butt is on the long side and I would like to add another choice to your list. Check out the shimano teremar north east series 6'6" M action. It's rated 1-3 but can easily handle 8oz bottom dropping. It will work well for tog, rock, reds, bait and is sensitive enough to jig ok with. About as good as the trevala s which is pretty good! It's $99 some places on sale and I got mine at Anglers.

[Seasalt]

I don't know anyone that has bought, tried, and sold as much gear as me. Pinch maybe but he breaks most stuff and then throws it away in spectacular fashion, *cough* custom fly rod *cough* custom shore tackle ltj rod....

I have a shimano trevala s and I have had numerous trevalas of different weights, lengths, and casting orientation and they are all great! The butt is on the long side and I would like to add another choice to your list. Check out the shimano teremar north east series 6'6" M action. It's rated 1-3 but can easily handle 8oz bottom dropping. It will work well for tog, rock, reds, bait and is sensitive enough to jig ok with. About as good as the trevala s which is pretty good! It's $99 some places on sale and I got mine at Anglers.

Are these it? I looked at them and the lure weight was only up to 3/4 for medium.
http://www.tackledirect.com/shimano-...ning-rods.html

[Redfish12]

Yes, I was talking about the conventional. I have had both the ugly tiger lites (my spinning / conventional) and they are too soft for that much lead in my opinion. The butt length on the teremar a has always been fairly short/kayak friendly and these (http://m.tackledirect.com/shimano-te...ting-rods.html) are right in the sweet spot.

Do do you need a spinner? If so, the MH 6'6" trevala or trevala s may be an option for you if you can swing the price. They have shorter butts than the conventional versions (which I always end up trimming down) and you can fish jighead style or standard tog rigs and still have excellent sensitivity and weight range.

[Redfish12]

Sorry, just reread you want a spinner. There are some Star graphite rods or a st croix tidemaster that might be a good option but at your desired weight range most graphite rods are going to feel like telephone poles.

Good of luck with the hunt and go shake sticks before you buy anything! Take a lead and your reel and test it out.

[Seasalt]

Yes, I was talking about the conventional. I have had both the ugly tiger lites (my spinning / conventional) and they are too soft for that much lead in my opinion. The butt length on the teremar a has always been fairly short/kayak friendly and these (http://m.tackledirect.com/shimano-te...ting-rods.html) are right in the sweet spot.

Do do you need a spinner? If so, the MH 6'6" trevala or trevala s may be an option for you if you can swing the price. They have shorter butts than the conventional versions (which I always end up trimming down) and you can fish jighead style or standard tog rigs and still have excellent sensitivity and weight range.

Thank you Redfish12! I'm leaning toward the Shimano but definitely want to "shake some sticks" at the newly opened Cabelas in Gainsville!