Depth of the lure has three components: Length of line; weight of lure, speed of yak.

[manlystanley]

I mainly use 1/8 and 1/4 oz jigheads...I have a few 3/8 oz. but nothing heavier...all of my fish come on those...in shallow flats I throw mostly 1/8 oz 3/0 hook jighead. In 8-15 FOW 1/4 oz 4/0 hook is my standard...if I were using 5 or 6 inch swimbaits I might be in the 1/2-3/4 oz range...I just received my order from Bomber baits for 25 red 1/4 oz. Shad 4/0 hook jigheads...that should last me a while...90% of my fishing is done with a 1/4 oz. jig- mix in XR10 Rapala, a #3 mepps spinner (white perch) and Tsunami popper and that is my arsenal...

Serious. I am packing up now to go out tomorrow. I'll check all this out when I get back. Great information. Thanks!!

Best Regards,
Stan

[baitball]

I occasionally (sometimes intentionally, sometimes inadvertently) troll into shallower water and make a mental note of where my lures start hitting the bottom. It's been pretty consistent the depths certain combinations of jigheads and paddletails run, which allows me to choose the combo that will run the depth I am targeting.

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+1 on this technique. It may seem crude, but it works.

[summersoff]

Ton of great info in this thread.
With all the crab pots this season, I'm constantly turning and fluctuating my trolling speed. Keeping my jig steady is nearly impossible where I fish. One thing I like to do, to combat the trolling monotony and feel my jig is I alternate holding one rod for a bit. For one, I love to feel a strike. Second, I like giving it a few jerks now again to clean the line and impart a little action. Can't tell how many times I get hits when I give a couple taps. Third, holding the rod telegraphs if it is hitting the bottom and where it is in the column.

[Yak Fish]

Drag is another component in addition to weight, line out and speed. Drag comes from the diameter of your fishing line, the cross sectional area of your lure, the bulk of the lure and the overall shape.
I happen to be super particular about knowing the depth my lures run. It makes a huge difference to be in the strike zone vs out of it, even in water less than 10'. That's really why I prefer trolling hard baits of known diving characteristics or my Chesapeake Rigs as long as I have a line counter. Just my two cents for whatever it's worth. Good thread guys.

[Seasalt]

Drag is another component in addition to weight, line out and speed. Drag comes from the diameter of your fishing line, the cross sectional area of your lure, the bulk of the lure and the overall shape.
I happen to be super particular about knowing the depth my lures run. It makes a huge difference to be in the strike zone vs out of it, even in water less than 10'. That's really why I prefer trolling hard baits of known diving characteristics or my Chesapeake Rigs as long as I have a line counter. Just my two cents for whatever it's worth. Good thread guys.

Interesting point about hard baits with different diving depths...

[baitball]

Q: Has anyone ever tried an in-line planer from a kayak? If so, does it work well, or is it too much effort? I'm talking the Sea Striker-brand planers like these: http://www.seastriker.com/ss_files/planers.htm or the Luhr Jensen-brand "Jet Divers" like these: https://www.rapala.com/luhr-jensen/t...Jet+Diver.html



planer.jpg

planer2.jpg

Sea Striker Planers The planer takes your lure down deep without heavy sinkers. While in trolling position, the planer runs at a 45 degree angle. When a fish is hooked, it returns to the surface. All sizes feature a rugged stainless steel blade. Packaged in a clear bag with header. Suitable for pegboard or bulk display. Models 4 & 5 are also available in braced that prevents the larger blades from flexing. The deluxe planer is approximately 10” long with a brace running across the bottom, securing the planer wire and blade together. This keeps your planer in tune and running straight. The HS8 is a high speed planer that allows the fisherman to troll a higher speeds The HS8 is also available in a kit.

ITEM	SIZE	Approx. depth
SSP1	1	5-12 feet
SSP2	2	10-20 feet
SSP3	3	12-25 feet
SSP4	4	15-30 feet
SSP4BR	4 braced	15-30 feet
SSP5	5	20-40 feet
SSP5BR	5 braced	20-40 feet
DLX-P	6 braced	20-40 feet
HS8	8 braced (hi-speed)	10-40 feet

jet diver.jpg
jet diver2.jpg


Luhr Jensen Jet Divers feature a unique, buoyant design that collects water pressure against its wings to dive; yet when pressure is relaxed, the Jet Diver will float off of structure. The preeminent diver for river back-trolling applications, the Jet Diver enables the presentation of lures and baits tight to the river bottom where most fish are found.

[Yak Fish]

I've used jet divers and they work well, but they don't last. They eventually crack and fill with water.

[baitball]

I've used jet divers and they work well, but they don't last. They eventually crack and fill with water.

That may explain why I see more search returns come back with "Dipsy Diver" from Luhr Jensen than for the "Jet Diver".

It seems with the "Dipsy Diver" there is no cavity-cracking risk, it looks like one, solid disk.
Dipsey_Diver.jpg
dipsey_art.jpg
MagnumDiver-chart.jpg

[ronaultmtd]

If I am targeting deep channels like 80-100 feet, I pull stretch 30's or 4 oz. in line lead trolling sinkers on 65# braid on Abu 6500 reels...otherwise, I go light tackle with 1/8-3-8 oz. jighead with 3-4 inch swimbaits and XR8-12 XRaps...the depth of the structure you plan to fish has everything to do with the depth of your lures...shallow water of 8-15 feet is mostly where I am...

[AintMisBehavin]

Great advice, thanks! I got my first Rock this past week, but I know I need more skill. I'm just throwing it out and hopping for the best. I've got some comments to your points:

Lure shape, affects depth: I never thought of that. So, I'd guess that a plastic with a larger tail would cause the lure to raise???

Rod Angle: Hmmmm...... I run two lines, one in the back at 60 degrees, and the second off the side, level to the water. So, I could cause the lure to change depths by raising the working the rod off the side.... Interesting. I really get a lot of hit's making turns, so this could be a nice little factor to try........

Making turns: I've noticed that. I'll that a try more. I never thought that the direction of the turn would after the lure on either side differently. Good point.

So, armed with my new found pointers, I'll give it a try Thursday.


Thanks,
Stan

All this time throwing it out and hoping for the best has been the technique I go to 70% of the time!!!