Request suggestions re - Rod and reel combos that don't cast well anymore

[UnkleRob2020]

I was fishing over the weekend and I was casting, not trolling. That is when I realized that two of my rods (one medium, one light) with Pfleuger reels, do not cast well at all. I am unable to cast any reasonable distance or with accuracy. I felt that they were fine last year and I don't remember it being so difficult to cast accurate over moderate distaneces.

When this happens, is it likely to be a problem with the rod, reel, or both? All reels have fresh line. I would probably have noticed sooner, but much of the year I have been trolling and if I was casting, it was with my ultralight combo which still allows me to cast fairly well.

I did receive a used Shimano Stradic from a dear friend and I have other rods at home that range from a crappie rod all the way to medium heavy. I intend to put the Shimano Stradic on one of my rods before the weekend....

What can I do to improve my ability to casting ability? What weight (UL, Light, Medium) and action (fast, moderate, slow) is best for casting?

Thank you

[bignose]

Rob,

Are you spooling up braid or mono on your reels?

Braid will usually outcast mono as it is thinner for the same pound test.
If using mono, try some "Reel Magic" spray on the line.

Check the lay of the line on your reels to see if there are uneven layering, or line loops that are catching as you cast. Even with fresh line, you need to spool it up with some tension on the line so it lays well.

I remember you learning about trailing your line behind the kayak to remove twist, but this shouldn't be an issue if you are using braid. If using mono, you may want to try that again and wind it back with a little tension on it.

Are your lures heavy enough to cast the expected distance?

Using a very light lure, say 1/8 oz., on a medium action rod won't cast well, where a 1/4 oz. lure will pull better. Gotta match up your tackle......

And remember to rinse your reels off in fresh water after fishing in tidal water. Those pesky salt crystals find a way to get down into spools.

[UnkleRob2020]

Thank you Stu. I should have mentioned that the rod/reel combos in question were submerged in the bay last year when I capsized. I have tried cleaning and oiling the reels, but they just don't seem to be functioning like they used to...

Yes, I am a big fan of trailing the line (with no lure attached) behind the kayak...it can be difficult for me to get the first stretch of line out and in the flow, but after that first stretch, the line usually comes off the spool with ease.

I do absolutely rinse my reels in fresh water after tidal fishing. I keep a small cooler in the car and I always have a couple of gallon jugs of fresh water. I will pour fresh water over each reel (do you think this is sufficient, or should I try a different method? Then I put all the lures that I used for the day into the cooler and fill it with fresh water....this has helped me to keep tackle from rusting. I didn't do any of these things after I capsized last year (I was shaken and just grateful to be on land) and some of my tackle rusted so much that I am replacing it slowly...

[dsaavedra]

When this happens, is it likely to be a problem with the rod, reel, or both?

I'd say it's likely an issue with the line or the casting technique.

Stu nailed it on the braid vs mono thing - for a given line strength, braid will outcast mono because it is thinner, slicker, and doesn't develop memory. Memory is the tendency for the line to want to form coils when not under tension - these coils will cause friction and slow down your cast as they slap against the tapered guides of the rod during a cast (like trying to thread a Slinky through a funnel vs a straight piece of string). Here's an example from lines that I personally use: 20lb test Sufix 832 braid is 0.009 inches in diameter. Berkley Big Game mono 20lb test is 0.018 inches in diameter. The mono is twice as thick as the braid of the same strength. Thick mono is stiff and doesn't cast well in light tackle applications. If your mono is heavier than ~12lb it will probably start to affect light tackle casting performance.

Ensuring your spool is filled all the way with line will also improve casting performance. On a spinning reel, the line has to go over the lip/rim at the top of the spool during the cast. If the line level on your spool is underfilled, there's more of a lip that the line must overcome before coming off the reel, which introduces friction and slows the cast. On a properly filled spool I like to leave about a 1/16" gap between the line level and the bevel at the lip of the spool.

Casting technique is huge as well. You want to leave sufficient line hanging from your rod tip when making the cast (I usually leave about 1-2ft) and move the rod forward in a smooth, fluid motion, releasing the line when the rod is fully loaded from the weight of the lure. Focusing on smooth, fluid motion and loading the rod is far more important than trying to muscle as much "power" into the cast as you can. Let the rod do the work - matching lure weight to the rod is like Stu mentioned is important here... stiffer rods will have a harder time throwing lighter lures because the light lure won't load up the stiffer rod.

In most situations, accuracy is more important than distance. Especially in kayaks where we have the ability to quietly sneak up in close range to our targets. Casting accurately simply takes practice. Lots and lots of practice. Fortunately it's easy to make hundreds casts in a fishing trip. Over time you will develop muscle memory and won't even need to think about it. One tip I have is to focus intently on your target when casting. I've heard people say in various contexts (mountain biking, driving, hockey, etc) that the bike/car/puck goes where your eyes go. I think the same applies to casting. Another tip I have is to control the landing of the lure by slowing down the line as it comes off the reel. I do this by putting my free hand in front of the reel with an open palm, not touching the line at all initially. As the lure nears the target I begin closing my hand into a fist around the line, gradually applying pressure to the line as it comes off the reel so I can slow the lure and stop it right where I want it. This isn't something I do on every cast, but it is a helpful trick to keep in mind, especially if you can tell your cast will overshoot your target.

I don't think a corroded spinning reel would affect casting too much. It would certainly affect the smoothness of your retrieve. But casting with a spinning reel does not rely on any mechanical aspects of the reel - it's all about momentum from the lure, leverage from the rod, and the line flowing freely off the reel. The exception here is if there is corrosion on the outer rim of the spool - this surface should be as smooth as possible. If there is corrosion it will introduce friction as the line comes off the spool, and it will also abrade your line. Any corrosion, pitting, or nicks/dings on the rim of the spool should be polished smooth with increasingly high grit sand paper and metal polishing compound.

[Mark]

Stu and Dave have given you excellent advice.

Matching your tackle to the application is critically important as is having that tackle in good working order.

Keeping it clean is also important. I soak my rods and reels (fly and conventional) with a spray of freshwater when I return from most trips. (Winter is the exception -- no hose!) Also, I lubricate my reels regularly. For your Pfluegers, simply remove the handle and squirt a few drops of light machine oil into the opening so that it pentrates into the cavety of the reel. Remove the cap on the other side of the reel and do the same. Also, lubricate the bail at both connection points on the reel and oil the line roller. (Remember -- When lubricatating, less is more. Don't overdo it.) Then cast the line and retrieve it, turning the handle a few times to work the oil into the reel. That will not improve the your casting per se, but it will keep your reel working smoothly.

The kind of lure you are tossing will greatly impact your casting proficiency. Stu has already mentioned the importance of matching the weight of the lure to the action of the rod and the weight of the line. However, some lures of the same weight cast easier than others. Perhaps the easiest to cast is a simple jig and paddletail. It's slender and offers little wind resistence. Add a spinner blade to it and all things being equal you have reduced the distance that you can throw that lure. Add a big rubber skirt or bucktail to the jig and again you have reduced how far you can cast that lure.

With the exception of throwing a curve with flyline, wherever you point your rod tip when you release the line is the direction that the your lure will follow. Understanding the physics of that will make you a better caster.

Finally, I practice casting at home on my lawn for both distance and accuracy and for proficiency with baitcasting, spinning and fly rods. (And yes, I occasionally endure comments from neighbors walking their dogs who ask if I have caught anything!) I enjoy casting so that is one reason I practice. However, it pays off for me when I am on the water and want to launch a long cast or need to drop a lure or fly into a small target area. I've observed many anglers flinging lures into trees and crashing them on docks. Others cannot compensate for wind nor can they drop a lure or fly into gaps in lily pads. They catch less fish as a result. Practicing our casts makes us better anglers plus it acquaints us with our gear so that we can use it better.

[UnkleRob2020]

This forum is such an amazing resource and I am grateful to everyone for your advice/suggestions and education. I think that it is worth pointing out that since becoming a member of the forum, I have asked quite a few questions even though a part of me thought that they were "dumb questions" or that the information I was requesting was so remedial that people may not respond.

I have found the exact opposite of what I expected, which further reinforces lessons about expectations. If you are new to the forum and shy about posting or getting to know people, I humbly suggest that you reach out, ask questions, etc...I have never been treated "less than" or belittled for any of the posts...even the one where I confused a walleye with a smallie :--)

Thank you Dave, Stu, Mark and everyone for all the help.

Mark, I would love to be there just one time when you are casting in your lawn and someone asks "You catching anything"....that is priceless :--)

TIght lines everyone

[nhunter344]

Pay attention to the suggested line weight for your rod. You would think that the minute difference in line diameter between say 10 and 20lb braid wouldnt make much difference, but it does. Also fuller reels (but not overfilled) tend to cast farther than half full spools. Tightly packed spools tend to cast further as well. A tight spool prevents the line from digging into itself on the spool (which results in reduced casting distance). After years (decades) of having my wife or son hold a spool of line at varying tension while I filled my reels, I finally broke down and bought a tool from an Australian company called Busted Fishing. It provides constant tension and gives a nicely packed spool.