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Spinning rod combo's - stepping up?

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  • Spinning rod combo's - stepping up?

    Having 3 kids and mostly Small mouth fishing the last 5 years, I have allways bought the 19.00 micro or ultra light combo's from Dicks and BP.
    Though in the last years I have stepped up to the better Pflueger or Quantum UL combo's, getting them on sale for 29-39 range.
    I do have the odd collection of medium action 6.0 - 6.5' spinning rods with 15# braid.
    I did just pick up 2 light medium 6' spinning combo's this year, Pflueger continuous backlock, but still in the 49.00 range.

    BUT,, these rods are not lasting in the saltwater,, not realy rusting, just "gumming up", I may try to break em down this winter and clean/lube.

    Anyhow, what would be a good all around spinning combo for this area (So. MD) ? thinking 6' - 6.5' with 12#-15# braid ? looking to stay in the 60-80 range if possible?

    Thanks,
    Slack
    Captian of the plastic Navy
    1 - Mad River Canoes
    1- Tarpon 120
    1- Redfish 10
    1- Coosa HD
    2- Cuda 12
    1- Slayer Propel 10

    http://reoservicesofmaryland.com/

  • #2
    For rods, I really like most rods made by Bass Pro. I or my father have used most models from their Tourney Series to the Carbonlite. The Graphite Series and the older Bionic Blades were both good bangs for the buck and are pretty affordable, especially when they go on sale. I haven't played with the new version of the Bionic Blade, and I'm not sure how the new reel nut will hold up in saltwater. There's usually a sale before Christmas.

    I'm not sure what to recommend regarding reels. I haven't had luck with Shimanos lately. I know a lot of people like Pfluegers, but they tend to have a slower line recovery rate than I like. I wouldn't recommend Bass Pro's Pro Qualifier reel. I bought one to use for trying to catch Spanish macks since it had a really fast line recovery rate. I've been having some trouble with line twist, even with braid, which is very unusual for me. First I thought I overspooled it, then I thought I need to lube the line roller. I took the line roller apart and found out it uses a bushing instead of a bearing, which is inexcusable for a reel of that price. Strangely enough, the Bass Pro baitcaster I bought, which was a cheaper reel, has held up fine to use in saltwater. When I first started kayak fishing, I bought mid-range Daiwas and had them get rough in less than a season despite rinsing after every trip. Maybe the new ones are better?
    Yellow Hobie Revo Rube Goldberg
    Yellow Tarpon 120

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    • #3
      Originally posted by ictalurus View Post
      For rods, I really like most rods made by Bass Pro.
      I have an ultralight from BPS and have loved it. I believe it was the microlite (It's yellow - hard to miss). I think I paid $20 for it and have had it for probably close to ten years now. It has been fished almost exclusively in salt and has held up well. For reels, check out the local fishing shows, usually late winter/early spring. There is one at the Earliegh Heights fire station in Pasadena/Severna Park that I have had some luck at in the past. I've heard okuma makes a pretty decent affordable saltwater reel, but I have never fished one. I've always been a shimano guy but lately I've had a couple of them fail, so that makes me wonder. Granted, they were the cheaper models in my collection.

      Dick's isn't a bad way to go, either. I still have a Shimano combo I got there a few years back. It was a couple seasons old and had a bent guide. The original sticker was $120. I paid $29 and bent the guide back into place. That was probably five years ago and it is still my go-to spinning combo.
      LL Bean (Perception) Manatee DLX Angler 9.5'
      Hobie Pro Angler 12

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      • #4
        Actually, I was way off in my earlier statement about spinning reel line recovery rates. After a little research, it seems Pflueger, Okuma, Abu Garcia, etc. all make reels with line recovery rates in the the 30-35" inches per turn range now. With that in mind, I think I'm jumping off the Shimano train. I've recently been looking for slower spinning reels for winter fishing and/or fishing for bass with plastic worms, and it's more difficult to find a slower reel now than it was a few years ago. Even the inshore reels that some companies make, with ads mentioning speckled trout, have high line recovery rates now, which is funny given that everything I've read about specks mentions slower presentations.

        I guess the moral of the story is that you have a lot of options now in your price range.
        Yellow Hobie Revo Rube Goldberg
        Yellow Tarpon 120

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        • #5
          I have had good success with the white cabelas salt striker reels and the okuma avenger series. I rinse them down after and they've been solid. I have also had good luck with my small Penn 2000 Sargus, but it is a little more out of your price range. As for rods, I'm a big fan of the bass pro grpahite or tourney series rods when they go on sale. The 6'6" MH can handle anything and the 6'6" M rod makes a nice all around lighter rod. A lot of guys on this board have these rods and I think feel the same.
          Used to fish more.

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          • #6
            no expert here on rods or reels, but in the early spring I bought a Penn Battle spinning reel in 2000 & 3000. Thus far, both have worked great and I fancy the 2000 for perchin with just some good ole stren 6 lb. mono. These have been running 99.00 @ Dick's. As with anything in saltwater, time will tell. I rinse rods, reels, lures and I shower once a week.

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            • #7
              i just had to replace an older fiberglass rod that warped in my truck over the summer. a friend of mine had a 8'6" blank which was labeled tiger eye so i had him strip the old rod and reuse the titanium guides and tip and cut the rod to 7.5 feet. it has nice action for jigging and a good back bone. i like 7' + rods so i can get around the yak with no problem. the 7.5' rod gives me more distance with light jigs and spinners. coupled with an Okuma Advenger bait feeder 30 if something bites its not getting away, the problem is getting something to bite(;
              Last edited by surfdog; 10-10-2012, 06:20 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by surfdog View Post
                i just had to replace an older fiberglass rod that warped in my truck over the summer. a friend of mine had a 8'6" blank which wad labeled tiger eye so i had him strip the old rod and reuse the titaniom guides and tip and cut the rod to 7 and a half feet. it has nice action for jigging and a good back bone. i like 7' + rods so i can get around the yak with no problem. the 7.5' rod gives me more distance with light jigs and spinners. coupled with an Okuma Advenger bait feeder 30 if something bites its not getting away, the problem is getting something to bite(;

                I must agree with the 7' and 7.5' length of rods. Not only is it easier to get around the kayak, it is easier to keep slack out of the line while fighting a fish. I am building two custom kayak trolling rods, which are 7.5'. They should be great. I also have two heavier blanks, also 7.5', ready to build that will be for 30lb test and trolling. They will be more for the spring.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by DOGFISH View Post
                  I must agree with the 7' and 7.5' length of rods. Not only is it easier to get around the kayak, it is easier to keep slack out of the line while fighting a fish. I am building two custom kayak trolling rods, which are 7.5'. They should be great. I also have two heavier blanks, also 7.5', ready to build that will be for 30lb test and trolling. They will be more for the spring.
                  Really? I've really only ever used a 6'. Might have to try a 7. Then again, my yak is a 10', so I don't have a long way to go. I've been trying to think about what I would change. Part of me wants less rod below the reel seat. My bait caster has a fairly significant butt grip and it always seems to jab me in the gut.

                  Glad to meet another builder! Last winter I built a couple of short light boat rods. 12-20 lb class with Tekota 600's. Acid wrapped the guides with a roller stripper and roller tip. Looks a little weird but catches fish and is a ton of fun! My guess is that the fast tip creates better action on the lure while trolling. They're probably a little much for the yak...at least for the fish I catch!
                  LL Bean (Perception) Manatee DLX Angler 9.5'
                  Hobie Pro Angler 12

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                  • #10
                    They may be a bit much. After the loss of my two casting rods in a kayak accident last year, I have been using a pair of IGFA 20 trolling rods. I had those from my boating years. They tend to be a bit much for the kayak and the lures I now use. The newer rods are built on casting rod blanks. I am using two Calcutta TE reels, as 400 and a 401. This is an improved version of what I had in the past. I usually don't have a butt handle any longer than my forearm. I know some like shorter in a kayak. However, I find it important to use my forearm as an extension of the rod for leverage.

                    The Tekota is a very nice trolling reel. I am thinking about using two of those to replace the two Penn International 975 casting reels from the trolling rods, for two other heavy casting rods that I am building. I am shifting all of my tackle around.

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                    • #11
                      This is the casting rod I've been trolling with lately. I call it Overkill. Nice bass rod with an Avet 5.3 bolted on...



                      I decided I wanted it to look a little more coastal, hence the blue/white fade. I never really liked it for casting, but it makes a great light trolling rod.
                      Attached Files
                      LL Bean (Perception) Manatee DLX Angler 9.5'
                      Hobie Pro Angler 12

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