Hey guys i have an ascend fs12 t and havent had a fish finder. Im prob getting the elite 4 for christmas and really have no idea how to mount it. Since its color with the 12 v 7 amp hour battery still work good? How/where would i mount that? Id like to have someone help so i dont mess it up lol
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Yes, a 12Volt 7amp/hour battery will power that unit just fine. From personal experience I know I can get 3 trips in with a full charge on that battery (could probably go more).
I keep my battery in the hull enclosed in a tupperware container. I drilled one half inch hole in my kayak to run the power cord. I used what is a called a "nylon liquid tight cord grip" (see the link).
McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#liquid-tigh...-grips/=kjfgva
This connector tightens down on the power cord, keeping all water out.
Dave
Wilderness Systems Ride 115
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Originally posted by Turtle135 View PostYes, a 12Volt 7amp/hour battery will power that unit just fine. From personal experience I know I can get 3 trips in with a full charge on that battery (could probably go more).
I keep my battery in the hull enclosed in a tupperware container. I drilled one half inch hole in my kayak to run the power cord. I used what is a called a "nylon liquid tight cord grip" (see the link).
McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#liquid-tigh...-grips/=kjfgva
This connector tightens down on the power cord, keeping all water out.
1. Do you happen to know which size cord grip you have. I'm thinking about getting a humminbird fishfinder and I like to know what size allows the connector to fit through but still seals on the cord.
2. Do you ever take the kayak out without the fishfinder? Does the connector seal without a cord or do you put something where the cord goes to seal it?___________________________________
2015 Viking Profish Reload
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X2 on the battery, you won't have any issues. Ran my Elite 4 for multiple days between charges on the same battery. The easiest way would be to just run the cables up and under the front hatch, place your transducer and power source in there and away you go. Couple draw backs such as the hatch not being completely sealed and exposed cables to get things snagged on but it is a no drill method that will work. Drilling methods like turtle mentioned are generally cleaner/neater. Regardless of how you run the cables I would mount the head unit up front between your feet on the vertical flat spot. If you want to drill a hole to run the cables, that is also a good spot because no water can pool there. I drilled a hole, ran my wires and then drilled a couple holes in a rubber stopper and used that and some silicone to seal the hole. Could have been prettier but it was effective.
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Originally posted by reel-em-in View PostTwo questions:
1. Do you happen to know which size cord grip you have. I'm thinking about getting a humminbird fishfinder and I like to know what size allows the connector to fit through but still seals on the cord.
2. Do you ever take the kayak out without the fishfinder? Does the connector seal without a cord or do you put something where the cord goes to seal it?
note: the connector (plug to the fish finder) does not fit through the cord grip, I use the cord grip on the power cord which has no connector on one end when you get it
I do take the kayak out without the fish finder at times. I have alligator clips on one end of the power cable (to connect to the battery) and the plug (to the fish finder) on the other end. To pull the power cable out of the cord grip I would need to remove the alligator clips (so I leave that cable in). I pull most of the cable inside the hull just leaving the plug on top of the cord grip. Where I have it mounted it is out of the way.
Here are a couple of pictures:
Last edited by Turtle135; 12-11-2012, 11:15 AM.Dave
Wilderness Systems Ride 115
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Your installation with the through-hull fitting is very clean looking. I use and approach more like what Chimo describes. My cables to the screen unit and the power leads to the battery run underneath the edge of my rubber hatch cover. I use a 5-amp-hr battery in a Tupperware box that fits nicely in a well in front of my port-side foot rest.
Attached FilesJohn Veil
Annapolis
Native Watercraft Manta Ray 11, Falcon 11
Author - "Fishing in the Comfort Zone" , "Fishing Road Trip - 2019", "My Fishing Life: Two Years to Remember", and "The Way I Like to Fish -- A Kayak Angler's Guide to Shallow Water, Light Tackle Fishing"
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Originally posted by J.A. Veil View PostYour installation with the through-hull fitting is very clean looking. I use and approach more like what Chimo describes. My cables to the screen unit and the power leads to the battery run underneath the edge of my rubber hatch cover. I use a 5-amp-hr battery in a Tupperware box that fits nicely in a well in front of my port-side foot rest.
I think the best way for anyone to start out mounting a fish finder is to go with a no drill installation if at all possible. Get a few trips under your belt, see where it works best to have it located. I hate going near my kayak with a power drill!Dave
Wilderness Systems Ride 115
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Bout the elite 4. Where would i get the case for the battery? Im gonna pick battery and charger up sometime this week. Where would i get the material to mount the transducer and i should use marine grade sealant if i drill any holes? Im gonna have my friend assist me with it. Hes got a cheap humminbird on his ocean kayak prowler 13
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Originally posted by manlystanley View Post[Turtle: I love your setup. Great pictures and Info. I'll copy your setup. One question, I take it that you attach the transponder PVC and finder's two PVC connections to the rail? Is there some type of special bolt for that??
Best Regards,
Stan
Personally I've made homemade slidetrax nuts out of 3/4" aluminum flat stock and then drilled/tapped them to accept 1/4-20 bolts. (I basically just copied the OEM brass ones)___________________________________
2015 Viking Profish Reload
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I used standard bolts like 10/32 that I have bolt cullter for and use this setup to make the nuts. You just need a drill and tap.
"If you can't have fun doing it, it ain't worth doing." ... or you're just doing it wrong.
My Blog "Confessions of a fisherman, hunter and tinkerer"
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[QUOTE=archeryrob;54881]I used standard bolts like 10/32 that I have bolt cullter for and use this setup to make the nuts. You just need a drill and tap.
First point: You, sir; Are a smart man!
Secoind point: When I moved to Md 2 years ago, the movers said they never moved any anyone with so many tools. Now, I finally have an excuse to get a tap set. Umm... Why not throw in a dye set too!!!
Best Regards,
StanWilderness Systems Ride 135
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