Questions to ALL on kayak hull protection

Doing a little information gathering on hull protection. I am getting some information from a company on a product that may solve some of our Hull wear issues. But first I have some questions to all of you. I know on my kayak it has keel protection block at the back of the kayak that is replaceable. I seem to scrape the front of my kayak when landing on concrete ramp even if careful. That is where I put my protective strip 2" x 12", currently keel easy, and have to replace it reg because concrete eats it. So questions are:

1. What areas of the bottom of the yak and width and length to protect?

2. Other areas such as the side of your yak for concrete ships and others areas to protect. Also please provide approx. length and width.

3. What size should the strips be available in?

4. The product is a permanent install, so if you have any problems with that? (I know some who want a product they can remove)

5. Are you personally considering additional protection to your hull other than what is there from the factory?

6. Any other comments.

Thanks in advance for any feedback and will give you a detailed update if this product works out.

No, I am not working for anyone but would like to find a great product that will work for my needs of hull protection.

[BassMoore]

Harry i was thinking the exact same about those scratches and all. I ran across that padding you can buy, the non slip and supposed to quiet things down, like paddle and boxes.. I forget the name but i was thinking of running that along the front of my yak, applying it with goop. That way it can be removed once worn down, goop can be removed as well with finger nail polish remover.

I have only kicked the tires on this idea, mainly for I want to buy a big sheet of that stuff to customize my yak a little for more protection against slip when i stand and to quiet the hull down a little. Even put it on my ctug cart.

[Mark]

It would be great if a company could make custom form-fitting protectors for the bow and stern of various kayaks.

I'm apprehensive about putting anything on that will impede the water flow dynamics.

I'm more concerned about the bow. I try to come in easy to concrete landings. It's really nice when someone is there to catch me. if I'm first, I try to catch the person behind be to ease their contact with the ramp. A courtesy to remember.

I like how On the Fly's boat has a removable/replaceable stern protector. I wish mine had that.

At launches I usually reverse my car so I can unload my boat in the grass if that's possible to protect the stern from the hard surface of the parking lot.

Anyway, custom form-fitting protectors would be nice. Then there would be no need to trim or bend the materials for proper application.

[Runnin]

Wish I knew. The problem , especially with the bow is that you need something strong , but also smooth so it doesn't wreck the ability of the bow to cut through the water. I love the yaks with the replaceable stern pads, (Jackson ?). That is one awesome idea. I wonder if a manufacturer could figure out how to mold the same idea into a bow? I'm using Keel Eazy too and you are right, rock and concrete eats the stuff.

[AbuMasgouf]

I just got some keeleazy and going to install it soon. Since according to others it would need replacing every now and then, I'd be interested in better/permanent protection. Here are my thoughts to your questions:

1. What areas of the bottom of the yak and width and length to protect?

Bow: I actually would want to protect the front/tip of the bow (concrete ships) going down to about 3 feet under the boat (towards the stern). My scratches run that far.

Stern: 6 inches above the keel and another 2 feet under the boat (towards the bow). My scratches also run that far from the stern side.

2. Other areas such as the side of your yak for concrete ships and others areas to protect. Also please provide approx. length and width.

A strip running above the water line across the kayak (13ft) at a width of at least 1.5"

3. What size should the strips be available in?

1 ft with the option of buying a roll

4. The product is a permanent install, so if you have any problems with that? (I know some who want a product they can remove)

I think a permanent install would be more convenient as long as it doesn't mess with the hydrodynamics of the boat

5. Are you personally considering additional protection to your hull other than what is there from the factory?

Yes

6. Any other comments.

Thanks for starting this initiative

[Runnin]

A hair dryer is the best bet to install Keel Eazy. Rocks and Ramps tear it up. At least you have the satisfaction of knowing that it protected your hull somewhat while it was getting shredded. The biggest and deepest scratches on my hull are the first foot on the bow, and the last 8 inches on the keel. That's where I put the stuff. You could apply to the length of the boat, but I believe Keel Eazy costs about $4.00 per foot. It is about two inches wide.

I had to remove some that got shredded. I took it off the same way I put it on. I used the hairdryer, softened up the adhesive and pulled. Cleaned up with a scraper and alcohol, and re-applied.

I think doing the entire hull would affect performance, and be costly. The bow and stern would keep getting shredded and the middle wouldn't as much. I wouldn't want to piece meal the front and back leaving the middle . Replacing it all would just be unnecessarily costly. I'm going to keep doing the bow and stern like I have been doing.

Of course exercising a little extra care at the ramp and being more inclined to get my feet wet would help save on wear also.

[Pinch]

I think the first thing any kayak angler should do when they get their new kayak is to take a nail (or similar sharp object) and scratch your kayak. There is no possible way to save a kayak from a roller dropping you onto a re-bar spike on the concrete ships or the cheese grater effect of wave action on barnacle covered pilings. I have seen several attempts to protect kayaks from such damage and none of them really offer that much protection. I have seen the yak attack version of kayak armor get torn right up. The beauty of a kayak is that it is made of plastic, heat guns, blow torches and sand paper will fix most dings, dent, scars and bear attacks. You should not be dragging your kayak 1/4 mile across parking lot's or gravel without wheels. If you drag a hole through your kayak, here's your sign.

[Fishinfool]

Sometimes it's not possible, but I always try to avoid the concrete ramps and look for plain sand at a beach nearby. Or, I just get out of the kayak in six inches of water and pick it up to avoid dragging altogether. Adding any fillers etc. to the hull I think is pretty dicey.

[Slobber Bob]

When you mention this product requires permanent install, I assume it will guarantee hull wear and scratch protection over the lifetime of the kayak then? To me, permanent install means not having to ever replace it.

And along Pinch's comments, my entire hull would need protection. Oysters bars, barnacles, rocks, pilings, and light dragging have really taken off the new shine luster.

[moc]

I would be interested in protecting certain areas to extend the life of my Revo, since replacing it with the price increases could be over $2000 dollars. The plastic is tough enough to drag across sand and grass. I would like to have some protection and some anti slip protection on the keel, since it wares down when I take my kayak off of my truck's roof rack. Sometimes it may slip a little and drag on the concrete. This is where I would like some protection. I do not fish the concrete ships often. Actually only once. But I did see many kayakers with home brew solutions on the side of their kayaks to protect them from the accidental impact against the concrete ships. A ready made solution that works would be nice for those that desire that kind of protection against scraping against such structures.

[Runnin]

I don't think, I know 90% of my hull wear is done by me on or near the ramp. I have a 12+ year old Pamlico that the hull wore thru at the keel and it was from ramps. Maybe 10% due to in water hazards. I generally try to be careful but clearly admit most of the damage is self inflicted due to carelessness. The Keel Eazy isn't permanent but at least it could mean the difference between scratches and minor hull wear and a hole in the hull. At $4.00 /ft. even if I replaced it 4 time per year on the front and back, that's still only $320.00 over ten years. Way cheaper than a new boat.

Now that I have a new boat, I'm hoping to keep it from getting anywhere near as worn as my Pamlico.

[bgriff]

I have never seen this or heard of it done on a kayak, but I wonder if you could use a roll on bed liner type product? You could tape off the area you want covered and just roll it on. You might need to scuff up the area with sandpaper, but I wonder if it would hold up under water?

[Runnin]

I think it would be tough enough. My first question would be whether or not it would stick to the plastic.

[wfauby]

i never worried about the day to day scratching of my hull, but then again i dont fish around concrete and i take some normal precautions around ramps...with that said, the float i just did down the Shenandoah did a number on the bottom of my hull, nothing serious...its just not pretty anymore. And better navigation wouldnt have helped...some areas just dont have good paths through the rapids. I assume floats on certain sections of the Potomac may do the same. Its sounds like some of the products referenced herein dont hold up well enough for me to invest in them...its sort of like someone recommending wearing jeans, when riding a motorcycle...they're only going to help with road rash for the first three inches your sliding along the pavement. I may put some Gorilla Tape on my bow...

[dhawk]

This is my second year in my kayak and I dont baby it at all so I have some pretty good gouges the worst coming at mallows got hung up on the scupper hole on one of the wrecks. I havent seen any product that will work the way i want so I bought a plastic welding rod and just plan on fixing the bad spots as i go