Coping with withdrawl

[Runnin]

I;m working on my gear for when the ice breaks up. I am working on my Hurricae Skimmer 128 yak I boufght last summer. I'm adding more gear trac. I bought a Lowarance Elite 4x on closeout at BPS for 119.00. I orderd a Tallon Systems Lowrance mount today. It should be here in a wek or so. I'm also goint to add some waterproof LED tape light to my foot well. I have a scotty light and flag pole to mount too.

I also need to build a battery box.
I bleached and washed my gross looking pfd.
I've been replacing mono line on my reels lately.

Watching a lot of WFN shows. I really like Lost lake, Kayak Bassin, Kayak fishng show, and Saltwater experience.

[petepup]

I just pulled all my light tackle rods and reels in from the garage and pulled off about 20 feet or so of line off and replaces the leaders so they are ready to go. I also painted up a bunch of jig heads and shad darts!!

I may pour up some more lead heads to paint during the week next week.

I have been searching the web and researching yaks so that when my bonus come in next week I can buy my first yak!!!!

[J.A. Veil]

I also need to build a battery box.

I'm not sure what you had in mind. I am on my third battery. For each of the three, I placed the battery inside a plastic container.
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For the original 5 amp-hr battery, I used a small rectangular Tupperware box. For the next 7 amp-hr battery, I used an old potato salad tub. In both of those cases, I ran the power leads under the lid and snapped it down. The lid gapped a bit where the wires went inside but did not leak. Both of those older batteries eventually stopped holding enough charge for a trip.

Last fall I bought a 12 amp-hr battery. I had no plastic boxes of the right size around the house. I went to Bed Bath & Beyond and bought a plastic food storage box with a snapping lid. That type of lid would not allow passage of the power leads, so I drilled a hole in the side of the box. I insert the power leads, close the lid, and stuff a small piece of foam rubber into the hole to keep out water. It is not a high-tech solution, but it works well.

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I am fortunate that my Manta Ray has a perfect spot in front of the left side foot rest to hold the plastic battery box.

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I have not yet installed the fishfinder on my new Slayer Propel. I may start on that project tomorrow.

[Runnin]

Thanks John. The pictures are really helpful.

I haven't yet found the box. I have one of the 7AH batteries that Cabelas sells. I thought I might try to hit Wallmart this weekend. I read somewhere they stock a decent small waterproof box for a fairly reasonable price. I also want to hit West Marine to fine a couple wire grommets, a waterproof toggle switch, and an in line fuse. I wont't start actually building until I have a pretty good plan and all materials in hand.

[bgriff]

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Thanks John. The pictures are really helpful.

I haven't yet found the box. I have one of the 7AH batteries that Cabelas sells. I thought I might try to hit Wallmart this weekend. I read somewhere they stock a decent small waterproof box for a fairly reasonable price. I also want to hit West Marine to fine a couple wire grommets, a waterproof toggle switch, and an in line fuse. I wont't start actually building until I have a pretty good plan and all materials in hand.

Here are some pics of what I put together this past fall.
I got the box at Dick's around $15. A little pricey but I think the hard plastic is easier to work with when attaching quick connect.
The fuse holder came from an auto parts store. $3
The quick connect/disconnect from West marine forget the price.
The heavy duty velcro from Home Depot. I had a problem with the part of the velcro that I stuck to the inside of the kayak. It seems any moisture and it comes loose. I'm either going to glue it down with something stronger of find another way to secure the battery box in the hull. Right now I've just been wrapping a towel around it to keep it from sliding around.

[daolai]

bgriff - I like that quick connect idea may try that myself. Thanks for posting the pics.

[bgriff]

bgriff - I like that quick connect idea may try that myself. Thanks for posting the pics.

Just make sure you have the + and - leads hooked up correctly on each side of the connection or you wont get any reading....It happened to me.

[Runnin]

I really like that quick connect disconnect!

[J.A. Veil]

bgriff did a great job that looks far more professional than my plastic bins. A few years ago I had some electrical issue with a standard trolling motor plug on my center console that did not transmit enough power, and therefore I decided I would rather direct-wire my kayak battery to the battery terminals.

Make sure you keep saltwater from the quick connect terminals -- a bit of corrosion on the wrong spot and you could be out of business.

[sparky1423]

Just make sure you have the + and - leads hooked up correctly on each side of the connection or you wont get any reading....It happened to me.

You can also attach an additional male end to your wall charger. You will have no need to ever open the battery box again and pull the terminals off to charge, just make sure you get the polarity correct. Also, I gooped some a high density foam rectangle that the battery will nest in place. It's real a real simple border and the battery never budged during rough chop.

[PigPen]

I just bought a Plano box and a bunch of stuff on amazon pretty cheap. I'll fuses and holders for decades for $10. Hopefully it'll get here soon. I bought a 10aHr chrome battery for $20. Its so small....