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After a couple years of tangling confusion with my homemade (not so great) anchor and rode storage system, I decided it was time to turn semi-smart and install a well-reviewed commercial system that didn't look like it came from the local "Pick_N_Pull Junk Yard."
Having digested the pros/cons comments of trolley system customers, I decided on the "Yak Gear Delux Anchor Trolley Kit." I especially liked the enclosed pulley bracket that eliminates the need for a snap hook and pulley to the terminal line guides. I also liked the "well nut" installation of the pulley/line guide brackets, and the triangle shaped anchor rode guide.
I then watched the clear and concise 'Yak Solutions "Delux Anchor Trolley System Installation "YouTube" Video.' And fictionally test fitted the components to my paddle craft. So the order went in, and here I wait for delivery, so I can complete the install. I also opted for replace my homemade grappling style anchor with the Folding Fluke 3.5 pound kayak Anchor.
From past experience, paddleboat fishing, like offshore chunking or chumming, requires precise boat positioning and a controlled speed and directional drift over targeted structure or underwater thermoclines. I have found this to be especially important when flounder fishing coastal bays.
Switching paddles, I have a little trick for making weighted "flutter" hooks, using 0.031" Rosin Core Solder. Depending on how much weight I want to add to the hook, I make a single or double tight wrap of solder around the shank of the hook either in the middle or towards the eye. I then take a Solder Gun and melt the solder neatly around the shank. Let it cool and that's it. It is important to match the compatibility of the solder with the metal in the hook. The wrong solder and it don't stick. Soldering Paste is usually needed to pre-coat the hook surface and clean the tip of the Soldering Gun. I strongly suggest that anyone who tries this process, wear safety eye glasses and leather gloves.
I am sure this has been done successfully by others, so if anyone has anything to add or correct, please let me know.
Joe
Having digested the pros/cons comments of trolley system customers, I decided on the "Yak Gear Delux Anchor Trolley Kit." I especially liked the enclosed pulley bracket that eliminates the need for a snap hook and pulley to the terminal line guides. I also liked the "well nut" installation of the pulley/line guide brackets, and the triangle shaped anchor rode guide.
I then watched the clear and concise 'Yak Solutions "Delux Anchor Trolley System Installation "YouTube" Video.' And fictionally test fitted the components to my paddle craft. So the order went in, and here I wait for delivery, so I can complete the install. I also opted for replace my homemade grappling style anchor with the Folding Fluke 3.5 pound kayak Anchor.
From past experience, paddleboat fishing, like offshore chunking or chumming, requires precise boat positioning and a controlled speed and directional drift over targeted structure or underwater thermoclines. I have found this to be especially important when flounder fishing coastal bays.
Switching paddles, I have a little trick for making weighted "flutter" hooks, using 0.031" Rosin Core Solder. Depending on how much weight I want to add to the hook, I make a single or double tight wrap of solder around the shank of the hook either in the middle or towards the eye. I then take a Solder Gun and melt the solder neatly around the shank. Let it cool and that's it. It is important to match the compatibility of the solder with the metal in the hook. The wrong solder and it don't stick. Soldering Paste is usually needed to pre-coat the hook surface and clean the tip of the Soldering Gun. I strongly suggest that anyone who tries this process, wear safety eye glasses and leather gloves.
I am sure this has been done successfully by others, so if anyone has anything to add or correct, please let me know.
Joe