Trolling Motor Thrust Question - Does Thrust Matter On A Kayak?

[DOGFISH]

That is an interesting motor mount. It is simple and efficient. I used an Island Hopper mount for my second mount: http://www.islandhopperoutboards.com/index.html. However, I like the PVC idea, just steer with the kayak rudder. I used to lock my trolling motor in place and steer with the rudder on the OK Big Game. It worked great.

PVC in kayaking is sort of like duct tape, many uses.

Another thing that those with trolling motors may want to try is a Kipawa propeller: http://www.kipawapropellers.com/ . I used one on my MinnKota, and it seemed to make the kayak move more consistently. It added a third blade and more pitch. When I would move through waves and chop the kayak would not lose momentum and then have to speed up again. As far as added speed, it only added a few tenths of a MPH. However, it was worth the money.

Yes, you do need to register each hull. I used the number board on the milk crate. However, don't get caught moving one registration number between hulls. I had two kayaks and kept the two numbers, one on each side, and flipped the board depending on which kayak the crate was on. When resistering, it helps to have the certificate of origin for the kayak, bill of sale and/or receipt of sale. If you have had the kayak for a period of time just explain to DNR that it is a kayak, and that you did not intend to add a motor when you first bought the kayak. Otherwise, they think it is a boat and want to fine you due to your not registering the vessel from the beginning. It is a DNR thing. It took me a while to explain this to them, with the help of the right clerk at the DNR service center.

[HJS]

In Maryland, you will have to title and register a kayak if you intend to mount an electric trolling motor. The title will involve a one-time tax on its value, just like when you buy a new/used car. In Maryland, registration is FREE for boats 16' or less and powered by a small motor ( 7.5hp or less I think). So once you pay the tax to title your kayak, the rest is free. Maryland registration must be renewed ever 2 years.

[Financeguru]

Well, I called VA DGIF and for each kayak, I have to fill out a form to register/title the kayak, a form for previously untitled boats, 4 pictures from each angle of the kayak, and pay fees for each. I can take the forms to DMV where they will give me a 90 day temp registration and will forward the forms to Richmond, otherwise I can send to Richmond directly and will get the expiration decals and registration in 2-3 weeks. Virginia requires the VA registration to be on the hull along with the expiration date decal.

When I calculate the VA watercraft sales tax, registration, and titling fees, it comes out to $84 per kayak or $164 for both. Something for me to think about I guess as I didn't factor all this in.

Anyone know the fees involved for MD registration/titling?

[Financeguru]

Abu: WAS. I haven't thought too much about how I would mount the motor but I have seen that PVC motor mount using the rear rod holder. It's a very simple and straight forward design but you do have to get the geometry right to ensure it stays in place.

Has anyone here made that PVC motor mount for their Revo 13? The only disadvantage that comes to my mind on that set up is the need to remove the whole motor when launching or coming back to shore through shallow water or the drag when not using the trolling motor to move around. In addition to having to take out of the rod holder and water, I'd have to have appropriate space to set the motor down in the back as the front would have the mirage drive. This might be an issue for some when using a larger/longer shaft trolling motor. Using the commonly seen "trolling motor clamped to a piece of wood plank" set up, you could just swing the trolling motor up and out of the water with minimal movement and weight/leverage issues. Of course, all this is just me visualizing as I have not used a motor mount on my kayak...still thinking about that.

[archeryrob]

I would heavily consider how this mounts and wear it sits. I know the side mounts looks good but I decided against it, even though it's easy and cheaper. With the motor on the crate I have to reach back to run it and when tilted up the head was getting into my paddle stroke. So if it dies or you get into shallow water and have to paddle it could be though to deal with.

And yes, adding the motor to the back is an undertaking. LOL I will be updating my thread later on as I should be done soon.

[MetroMan]

Anyone know the fees involved for MD registration/titling?

$2 title fee in MD. Registration is free for boats under 16' in length AND less than 7.5hp.

There is EXCISE TAX that needs to be paid, its 5% of the sale price. HOWEVER, if you purchased the yak/boat in MD, and already paid state sales tax, you are exempt from excise tax. You'll need the bill of sale/receipt to show this.

After you submit everything for initial registration, subsequent renewal is a non issue. DNR sends you a form to provide updated information if any of your info has changed. Even if you don't resubmit the form, they'll send out the new stickers anyway (since registration is free for us).

[archeryrob]

I just mailed mine in today. They told me the prowler was worth $600 even though I did not pay that, but no bill of sale and you're at the mercy of the state. Tax was $32.50 and the $2 fee so $34.50 for 2 years and $2 after that.

[Grippa]

Are you still wanting to power a kayak ? I have a 13 ft kayak and have experimented with 55Lb thrust and 80 Lb thrust. Grippa.

[Pat Smith]

I have done a lot of research on this subject recently as this is my winter project.
here is a link that you will find helpful http://www.trollingmotors.net/trolling-motor-run-time

Also, one thing that no one has mentioned...
You don't care as much about top speed of the kayak.. but you care a great deal about bottom speed. I have read reports that with a 5 speed high thrust trolling motor (55lb) the lowest speed setting actually pushes the kayak faster than you would want to troll at. For this reason a lot of people are going with a continuously variable speed motor, which is more expensive. Others have simply gone with a lower thrust motor.

[Grippa]

http://www.akff.net/forum/download/f...6938&mode=view

Hi Pat, yes that site has posted fairly accurate information. I think as as far as speed, or at least efficiency is concerned a 4 metre (13ft) kayak would be minimum. Length of displacement hulls determine max speed, within acceptable levels of efficiency. Anything shorter will use more energy to reach the same speed. My 55 Lb thrust is just right. It will run at top speed (5) for 2.5 hrs on 80Ah of battery. The 86 Lb thrust won't go much faster but produces a bigger wake, and can only cruise at top speed for 1.5 hr. It uses all that energy in that last 0.5 mph. A big waste. My kayak is nice and slow on 1, I would never need anything slower. If a very much shorter craft is used then 55 Lb thrust will be overkill, and wasting power on the top end. Mine is tandem as well so a 250 kg payload is possible. Weight doesn't seem to worry it. That usually means things are just right. The variable speed controllers come with the motor you order, and this means I would lose the advantage of cheap replacement motors. I cruise rivers on top speed (still not fast), and so a PWM (pulse width modulator) variable speed holds no advantages for me. I would rather spend the extra money on lithium batteries, which is what I am doing now. Can discharge deeper, they are lighter, so I can cruise for over 7 hrs. Top speed is important in the sense that I want to cover a "reasonable" distance in that 7 hrs. It is a fascinating hobby, as there isn't much reliable information or many well set up craft out there, at least in my part of the world. Thanks to all in this forum.... Grippa (Tasmania)... look it up ! NOT TANZANIA ! Great fishing here.

[Pat Smith]

great post Grippa, thanks.
And from what I have read and seen of Tasmania it looks to be a spectacular place.