Mounting FF - Marine Goop vs 2 part Epoxy

[Cliff]

While doing some research on mounting fish finders to a Hobie PA, I came across this video and wanted to see what you guys thought or had personally experienced in the past.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFmw6wSwxQ0"]Installing a Fish Finder on a Hobie Pro Angler - YouTube[/ame] SKIP TO 8:00 min

This is specifically for through hull mounting.

[Cliff]

sry for posting it here. I tried to delete the post, but I could only edit its contents.

[DOGFISH]

Many folks here on the forum use duct putty, available from hardware stores. They seem to have great luck with that instead of Goop. I'll let them speak to that installation. Some even make a wet-well type set up with the duct putty. There are past write-ups on this subject in the dry dock. You could go back a ways and find quite a few discussion on this subject.

If by chance you are mounting a Lowrance unit, they make a through the scupper hole mount for their transducers. That may be another option. I mounted the actual head unit in the sail mast hole on my pro-angler. Ram makes a mount for that. I think it is called a wedge mount. You can order it directly from Ram or BYB sells them in Annapolis.

[Cliff]

The main question I have is about the interference. In the video, the angler claims marine goop, when solidified, causes interference on the viewing screen in the first 5 feet of water. The epoxy on the other hand, does not interfere with the sonar. Is the extra clutter caused by marine goop that bad? Also, does duct putty create a similar problem when solidified?

Thanks for all the help!

[DOGFISH]

The main question I have is about the interference. In the video, the angler claims marine goop, when solidified, causes interference on the viewing screen in the first 5 feet of water. The epoxy on the other hand, does not interfere with the sonar. Is the extra clutter caused by marine goop that bad? Also, does duct putty create a similar problem when solidified?

Thanks for all the help!

As I said, I have not used that type set up. All of the guys on the forum get a good read out from the putty. They will comment on that subject. I use an over the side liberator mount on my PA.

Good Luck.

[Cliff]

Thanks for the response and the information about the liberator mount, currently looking into that now. I just got done looking at your set up. Using tracs for your rod holders is a great idea and your FF set up is very clean and organized.

[chimo]

Maybe it is just me but I always have had a lot of clutter in the 1st 5 feet of my fish finder no matter how I mounted the transducer and what fish finder I was using. Maybe I should mess with the sensitivity settings some more and see if that helps I'm currently using a duct seal wet well and have been very pleased with the results. Originally used goop but am much more satisfied this time.

Chimo

[Cliff]

Thanks for the input Chimo. Maybe there is some truth to the video in regards to clutter within 5 feet. However, I am still reluctant to use two part epoxy. I don't know many people who use it and once it is installed epoxy is pretty much permanent.

[john from md]

Cliff,

Epoxy is permanent when it is on rigid materials. On flexible plastic, like a kayak, if you flex the plastic, you can get it to pop off. Then you have to scrape it off the transducer. The good thing about two part epoxy is that it is easy to mix without getting bubbles in it and the few bubbles that do get in it can be vibrated out by holdiing the cup on a running bench grinder, sander or anything else that vibrates. When using epoxy, always use the slow cure stuff as it is less brittle.

I can attest to surface clutter issues even with transom mounted transducers. Usually, you can adjust the sensitivity and clean it up.


You can do a test building a dam around the transducer with modeling clay and wedge a piece of wood on the transducer. Add water and try it out on the water. This will give you a base line that you can compare to when you ductseal the unit in place.

Regards,

John

[J.A. Veil]

I have installed transducers inside the hull on two separate sit-on-top kayaks and on top of the floor of a fiberglass skiff. In all cases I used Goop (marine variety on the first install, then regular Goop after that). I use my Native Manta Ray hard and have bounced it from the back of the minivan onto the ground many times. Unlike others who express concern over the durability of Goop as an adhesive, I have had no signs of the Goop seal coming loose. I mounted the transducer in my Native in spring 2009 and have used the kayak at least 50 times since then.

You asked about getting interference in the top 5 ft of water. If you mean interference when the water depth is less than 5 ft, then I probably would agree. If you mean surface interference when the depth is deeper than 5 ft, I have not observed that. Remember that the sonar sends out waves in a cone pattern. The further the waves move from the transducer, the wider the extent of the cone. That means that the first 5 ft of depth will see only a very narrow cone of sound beam -- unless there are fish immediately below you at shallow depth, you would not see them anyway.

In part because of that coning effect, I set my screen nearly all the time at the 2X zoom setting so that the top of the water column is often cut off anyway.

I have never tried using the duct putty -- many MKF members have had excellent success with it. If you do decide to install using Goop, here are a few tips to get a good installation.

1. Find a spot on the inside of your hull that is relatively flat.
2. Make sure it is clean, then rough it up with some sandpaper.
3. Wipe the area with rubbing alcohol to remove any lingering oils.
4. Squeeze out a puddle of Goop, making sure to keep steady pressure on the tube. You do not want to get any bubbles in the puddle.
5. Set the transducer down gently in the puddle and rock it gently back and forth and side to side to move any residual air bubbles out of the way.
6. Place a weight on top of the transducer to keep it pushed down against the hull and to keep it from shifting until the Goop hardens (depends on air temp, but usually in several hours)

I mentioned the installation on the floor of a fiberglass boat. I sold that boat a year later and removed the FF/GPS unit and transducer. The bond between the floor, the Goop, and the transducer was incredibly strong and difficult to remove. It took more than half an hour to get the transducer off the floor and another half hour to remove the residual Goop from the transducer.

[Ahab]

I'm not the most mechancial guy in the world and I never had a ff before, so I used a youtube video to help me install my lowrance ff/gps on my outback. This video recommended marine goop and it has remained solid through one season.

I usually tone the sensitivity down a few notches and (as mentioned above) view through the 2x or even 4x setting.

It shows the bottom and structure well.....I just wish it showed more fish.

[jet]

ive had my transducer gooped in since 2008. last week it finally failed, and after i pulled it off, i cant believe it even worked. there were so many bubbles in the goop, let alone a huge air gap/bubble along the sides. i tried the duct seal instal today and i'm sold. took 2 minutes to instal and worked perfectly. i would consider the epoxy, but seems like it would be too permanent if i ever want to change out the ducer.

[Grady-Black]

+1 Duct seal/wet well

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEZ9_C1iKP0&feature=related"]The best way to install a transducer on a kayak - YouTube[/ame]

GB

[M3_Monstar]

So when using Duct seal you need to have water in the hull or just in the pool you make with the duct seal?

[Grady-Black]

So when using Duct seal you need to have water in the hull or just in the pool you make with the duct seal?

Just a handful of water in the pool you make with the duct seal.