Another one joins the dark side.

[FRED driver]

Thanks.

I guess I'll have to spend a little more money. The FF/GPS mount that comes in the box isn't going to fit anywhere I want to mount it. I want the top of the hull to stay flush so I can haul the kayak upside down on my Jeep. Wife's Jeep was the chariot to get it home, but I won't be using that Jeep anymore when mine ('05 Rubicon) gets back from Korea...hopefully soon.

I'm going to get a Ram mount, and plan on putting the base/ball in the cup holder on the port (left) side. Anyone have a better suggestion?

I would try to not use the cup holder...a good option is to buy a slide track plus a couple RAM mounting balls and instead install it in the side tray. Hobie and others make them (http://www.kayakshed.com/hobie-kayak...hobie-geartrac) (http://www.kayakshed.com/hobie-kayak...obie-ScrewBall). You can pull the unit off and keep the top flush. You're going to run into issues regardless, however with the HDI unit...I just installed one. There are huge cables coming off that puppy for the xducer and power cords that have to go somewhere. Really the best option is on the top but it will kill your goal to have a flush top. I guess if you installed it in the cup holder you could run the cords through the side tray instead. Bottom line, the cords are a pain in the ass (but the quality is superb once installed).

[dsiekman]

Thanks.

I guess I'll have to spend a little more money. The FF/GPS mount that comes in the box isn't going to fit anywhere I want to mount it. I want the top of the hull to stay flush so I can haul the kayak upside down on my Jeep. Wife's Jeep was the chariot to get it home, but I won't be using that Jeep anymore when mine ('05 Rubicon) gets back from Korea...hopefully soon.

I'm going to get a Ram mount, and plan on putting the base/ball in the cup holder on the port (left) side. Anyone have a better suggestion?

If you bought a short ram extender, you might be able to mount the ball upside down from the black mounting boards. Then run the extender out parallel to the board to clear it, then turn back up with the original mount...if you follow me.

[dsiekman]

Disregard. I was thinking it was a PA. Don't remember if the outback has mounting boards.

[Cowpokey]

The left cup holder is far enough forward that it shouldn't get in the way when the paddle is needed for launch and landing. The cable pass though is right next to (in front of) the cup holder also, so those huge plugs and cables could be tucked into the cup holder when the FF is taken off. Using the long side tray would have the FF perfectly placed to bang knuckles off of trying to paddle. The side tray is not flat on the bottom either, might not be an issue for the slide track, but a round based Ram ball mount won't sit flush by default.

I made some poor rigging choices with my first fishing kayak, so I'm going off of what I learned then and trying to avoid those same mistakes. I really didn't want to use the cup holder, but it seems like the best option for what I'm trying to do.

Any more input/ideas are welcome. I'll post up pictures as I go...hopefully I'll be happy with what I come up with.

[FRED driver]

What's paddling? You're in a hobie!

[Cowpokey]

What's paddling? You're in a hobie!

I guess I have to be weaned off of the paddle...lol

[Cowpokey]

Got the FF/GPS installed.

Where I decided to put the base, in the port cup holder.



Marked the first hole, and think about it for a little bit before the drilling the first hole.



Got the hardware installed for the base. Used 1/4" stainless steel machine screws with blue locktite, of course that also meant enlarging the holes in the Ram base slightly.



Had to steal the cable passthrough from the starboard side, will have to get another one before I hit the water to plug the empty 1" hole on the nekid side. The cables are pretty stiff, but still allows the mount to be moved around and adjust the angles.



Ready to go, but I need to figure out what to do about mounting the battery, right now it's just sitting in the hull. I can adjust the screen so it is pushed back away from the rudder handle.



With the head unit removed, the cables tuck into the cup holder and are clear of the top of the hull, so it will be flush for hauling upside down.





Zip tied the excess transducer cable to the seat scupper tube. I used two zip ties for now, might put a couple more on later...because I figure, "If it's worth doing, it's worth over doing."



Then coiled the NMEA cable up and secured it to the transducer cable.

[FRED driver]

Elegant design--well done

[Cowpokey]

Elegant design--well done

Thanks. I think I'm going to like it.

I've been looking at the Hobie battery holder (P/n 72025007), the power cable to the FF/GPS is just the right length to reach to the sailing post as they advertise mounting it below. My only question is whether you can still use a hatch liner with the batter mounted to the sailing post? I'm guessing you can use them together, certainly Hobie took that into consideration...didn't they?

[medicyaker]

Welcome aboard... I pick mine up in a coiple weeks. Waiting on my settlement which should be anytime now. I got the yellow banana 14 PA coming from Va. May even be there by now. I CANT WAIT!!

[Cowpokey]

Welcome aboard... I pick mine up in a coiple weeks. Waiting on my settlement which should be anytime now. I got the yellow banana 14 PA coming from Va. May even be there by now. I CANT WAIT!!

What boat(s) did you have before moving to the PA?

[Cowpokey]

It's true what they say about boats, "It's a hole in the water you throw money in." Not that I didn't know that, but dang this one hasn't even been on the water yet and every time I turn around I'm spending more money. Today I picked up a small rechargeable battery (12vdc 7amp hour) from Bass Pro for $25, a bag of zip ties, some stainless steel hardware (machine screws/nuts/washers) and the Ram mount...$90 before lunch.

Tonight I ordered the Hobie battery mount, another wire pass through "kit" and a hatch liner...poof another $95.

Still need a handheld VHF before I hit the bay. Thinking about a Standard Horizon 280 or 290...probably get the 280 since it will be attached to my PFD.

[Cowpokey]

I have an idea already. Use some webbing (same as the red around the bumper), to make a connected loop around each end. That webbing is over 4,000lbs in strength. I'll post up some pictures of what I come up with, it will be simplistic but also crazy strong at the same time.

This is what I came up with, for the thought I had in the above post. I tied a yoke out of 1" flat tubular webbing (4,000 lbs breaking strength) with loops at each end connected in the middle with a carabiner (Locking 5,000 lbs breaking strength; see red arrow). When the carabiner is removed the yoke loops can be slid off one end of the hull or the other. With the carabiner connected the loops will not slide over the end of nose or tail of the hull.

I plan on using this same yoke/loop/webbing to secure the hull to the top of my Jeep for transport. It is way stronger than anything else attached to the hull. Granted, a roof rack (properly installed) is sufficient for most applications...I don't do "most" applications.

[Cowpokey]

The hatch liner and sailing post battery mount are not duo compatible by default. The hatch liner (I think) could be manipulated with a heat gun to make an impression for the battery holder to fit against. The 12 vdc, 7 amp hour, battery I picked up local for $25 fits perfectly in the battery holder.

My only question is whether you can still use a hatch liner with the batter mounted to the sailing post? I'm guessing you can use them together, certainly Hobie took that into consideration...didn't they?

[FRED driver]

For what it's worth, I think the hatch liner is a big disappointment. Not in line with typical hobie engineering and design quality. It's flimsy, way overpriced, does not take advantage of the large volume up front and, most importantly, allows a lot more water in the front on choppy days when taking water over the bow. Instead of having a single weather stripped seal, the hatch liner breaks that up... Think of wedging a piece of plastic into your car door weather stripping--it's going to leak eventually. The next design iteration should have it attach internally without compromising the latch seal.

No big deal I guess if you never go out in marginal weather...

The battery mount however is far nicer and way more useful.